Alex Couto is a Portuguese writer and copywriter, he writes for Vice and Shifter, as well as creating campaigns for Netflix, Ikea and the Lisbon City Council. He wrote about gentrification in Lisbon on first book, Nova Lisboa, capturing the city’s zeitgeist with postmodern complaints of being kicked out by his landlady.

Alex Couto

Portugal is a modern democracy, with all the political parties and corruption scandals that come with it. It’s one of the most corrupt countries in Europe, but travellers may not notice at all. Well, you might suspect that two or three modern buildings shouldn’t have been built so close to the river, but that’s about it.

Portugal has a long history of workers rights, even though they are being erased on the daily and unions are becoming politicised, according to their influences. With that being said, don’t be surprised if you happen to encounter a march or an organised protest. They’re usually smaller than they should be.

Portugal still has racism issues, accentuated by the fact that a large portion of the population deny it. The George Floyd protests stretched to Portugal and prompted a huge debate about race, furthered by the death of actor Bruno Candé at the hands of a former colonial-combatant. The dialogue about Portuguese slavery practices still haunts an otherwise chill country and the blatant racism from the rising hard-right doesn’t help.

There is a big chance that you may encounter communist symbolism, communication materials and painted murals. The communist party was an active element in fighting the fascist regime that lasted for 40 years, and it’s now a party integrated in Portuguese democracy. Since it’s a trigger for a lot of travellers, we’ll just leave it at that. There is a recent ill-spirit from the fact that the communist party decided not to support Ukraine, which prompted discussion about whether they were in fact supporting Russia; they claim impartiality, which is also a form of choosing sides.

Portugal

Lisbon

What's the Political Situation Like in Lisbon?

Chiado is as prestigious as Lisbon gets, with its glamorous (and Michelin-awarded) restaurants, century-old cafés and streets with complicated cobblestone designs that are more like optical illusions. Before McDonalds and fast-fashion giants landed, it was Portugal’s best shopping destination. Here, you’ll be only five minutes away from one of the prettiest viewpoints in the city, just look for the plaques that say “miradouro”.

With that in mind, keep your eyes open for beautiful façades and typographical elements, as well as the Lojas com História signage, a program by Lisbon City Council to preserve some of the oldest businesses still in operation.

Chiado is a huge part of Lisbon’s soul and even when being gentrified at fast and furious speed, it still deserves a small slice of your trip. Walk around the main shopping areas, look at the Ruins of Carmo, and stop at Trevo for a very traditional bifana, a fried steak sandwich with cheap, delicious mustard, accompanied by an imperial (Lisbon’s way of asking for a tap beer). Quickly, before it’s completely gentrified.

It’s time for some real Lisbon. After the Fado joints and Alfama tourist-traps, Graça is where the locals are at, being one of the few areas that some locals are still able to afford. The housing crisis is real, and it leaves no area untouched.

In Graça, you’ll get a better idea of what Lisbon is really made of. Sit and watch people stopping for a coffee at the same square where revolutionary poets once plotted their interventions (Largo da Graça), notice elderly people going about their park strolls, as well as a mixture of tiled-façades that will stop you in your tracks. You can also visit the infamous flea market Feira de Ladra (which translates to thieves market), which takes place every Tuesday and Saturday.

Where there are hills, there are good views. For a quick respite from all the uphill walking, be sure to enjoy the views at two of the highest viewpoints in the city, Miradouro da Graça (high) and Senhora do Monte (even higher), where a cute garden is accompanied by, guess what, another quirky chapel.

Watch the vibe shift from day to night. Portuguese people will always sing and dance, even when the situation doesn’t really call for celebration, just head to Voz do Operário (The Voice of the Proletariat) and you’ll get what I mean. For live music and vegan bites head to Damas, a local favourite.

Santos has been on a high since a number of design stores created the Santos Design District, a business association spotlighting decoration and design stores around the area. The positive light that shined on Santos eventually created its reputation as one of the coolest areas around town. A preferred destination for creative agencies, it’s full of trendy brunch spots like Fauna & Flora, and one of the coolest tattoo shops around town, Arca Tattoo Parlour.

It’s complete with restaurants serving up local cuisine to busy workers from the surrounding areas, and the Portuguese parliament which is just one street away. When it comes to picking a restaurant, always opt for an eatery with a big queue as it normally means they have a strong local following willing to wait in line. Check out O Soajeiro for Madeira-style beef skewers, O Tachadas for typical Portuguese dishes and A Merendeira for classic bites like chorizo bread and caldo verde soup. Parlamento is also in the area, an obligatory stop for hypebeasts.

Take a walk around Santos for the views, enjoy the post-gentrified area of Madragoa (which was once plagued by violence), and dive into colourful streets packed with typical, tiled-buildings. Need some inspiration? José Saramago, writer extraordinaire and Portugal’s only Nobel Prize in Literature winner, used to live right on Rua da Esperança, go visit.

During Jacarandá season (May through to June), the streets of Santos are bathed in the prettiest shades of lilac from the blooming flowers overhead; but beware, they do stick to your feet.

One of the most eclectic neighbourhoods in the city, Arroios moved from being a commercial area to the centre of Lisbon’s multicultural scene. Packed with restaurants and bars, set against a backdrop of political propaganda, street art and graffiti, Arroios sets a scene of pre-gentrified Lisbon.

If you’re into Indian flavours, don’t miss Rosé Stupa, one of the most loved eateries in town. Don’t miss the former clandestine chinese restaurant on Rua do Benformoso 43, which is now legal; you can write on the walls while you wait for the food.

The seafood classic Ramiro is worth waiting in line for. After all, it is one of those places that always had a queue, way before gentrification settled in. Expect incredibly fresh seafood sourced from fishing towns closeby. The prego (beef steak fried in butter on bread) doubles down as a kind of dessert.

Don’t forget to check out Mercado de Arroios (Arroios Market), which is full of organic products and seasonal fare, it’s a great alternative to the boring supermarket chains.

A Guide to Lisbon's Best Neighbourhoods

Portugal has a complicated history with piropos, a very popular kind of cat-calling associated with construction workers that was perceived as fun for way too long. Some are really dumb, like “you have curves, but I don’t have breaks”, but they’re all unnecessarily invasive. Right now, it’s being discussed in the Portuguese parliament, with several parties arguing about whether piropos should become criminalised or not. This example offers a glimpse into the underlying machismo that is present in Portuguese society. Everyone has had to tell a guy that he was being too nosy with a girl and almost everyone has gotten into a fight because they were doing it while drunk.

If you plan to visit solo, especially as a woman, this will be your main concern. Portuguese men will probably try to flirt with you in a way that only their drunken minds will deem acceptable, breaking the barrier of touch at any possible opportunity. It’s a shame that this situation is still prevalent, because apart from these incidents, Lisbon is a great place to connect with like minded individuals, schedule cute days out and meet new people. Organise your trip around your main interests and you’ll likely meet genuinely lovely people.

Just keep in mind that nights at Bairro Alto and Cais do Sodré tend to get extremely boozy and are prone to the kind of flirting that only Portuguese men consider normal (very wrongly so).

A Guide to Solo Travel in Lisbon

Lisbon has come a long way when it comes to dressing. Gone are the days where everyone wore a black suit with a matching tie to match the sombre mood of the fascist dictatorship. The country has gone from a long period of darkness into an era of golden glow.

Being ostentatious is another conversation. It’s problematic. The millionaire tourists that stroll down Avenida da Liberdade really sour the mood. They probably won’t be robbed, but Portuguese people cringe at their excess, especially when the minimum wage in Portugal is €740 a month. Posting TikTok videos about how you live as a digital nomad in Lisbon with just €3000 a month is also frowned upon, which shouldn’t come as a surprise.

Drinking alcohol on the street is cool, but drinking to the point of passing out on the sidewalks of Bairro Alto and Cais do Sodré is not. The neighbourhood associations are traumatised from puke-flooded streets and hanging car mirrors. Please keep the booze in your stomach with the help of Água das Pedras.

Locals host a lot of dinners at home and picnics in the garden. If you meet Portuguese or Brazilians (there is a recent influx of entrepreneurs from our brotherly country), there is a big chance they’ll invite you to their home for something delicious, accompanied by red wine. If that chance appears, take it. You’re in for a treat. The polite thing to do is bring at least one bottle of wine or a dessert. Also, ask about dietary options when it comes to dessert, because Portuguese people will slap 20 eggs into every dish. Showcase your good taste by choosing the right wine to pair with food, any good wine shop will help you with that (looking at you Rebel Rebel and Comida Independente).

If you’re at a bar or restaurant, it’s customary to tip, but not obligatory. Just be aware that waiters are usually paid the minimum salary and their bosses are depending on your solidarity to give them a fair living wage.

Defending hard right or hard left political views will almost always find you a debate opponent that may or may not be way too galvanised to keep physical distance. Please keep in mind that recent Portuguese history has seen terrible decisions from both sides of the political spectrum and discussions are bound to continue ad eternum.

If you see older locals spitting towards the floor like it’s normal, just know that the younger generations find it just as disgusting as you do.

Lisbon: The Cultural Codes and Etiquette

Lisbon’s huge housing crisis just keeps getting worse. If more visitors keep choosing Airbnb over hotels, more landlords will give up their long-term rentals to make extra money on Airbnb. Almost everyone living in Lisbon has felt it, and it sucks.

Actually, it’s one of Lisbon’s biggest social issues right now. It might seem like just another city having a quarrel against the sharing-economy giants, but due to the smaller paychecks in Portugal when compared to the rest of Europe, it’s where it’s had the biggest impact. It’s affecting everyone; students struggle to find rooms whether they’re Portuguese or not, and older locals have been forced into the suburbs in droves, which in turn has created a rent spike on the southern margin of the Tagus River.

It seems like dark humour: How can such a sunny city be one of the most inhospitable places in the world? Accommodation plays a huge part in this zeitgeist of Lisbon-living, the housing market speculation is lasting so long, we don’t even know if it’s a bubble or a permanent state. This quickly progressed to a state of complaint from locals towards tourists and travellers, but it never gets out of hand (and that you’ll probably never notice) because Portuguese people can’t resist going the extra mile in what comes to service and hospitality. Our warm reception towards travellers often masks the fact that we’re not at peace with how Lisbon is being stolen from locals.

The best way to get around the extreme Airbnb-ification of Lisbon is to stay at local owned hotels or guesthouses. From the upscale stays in the city centre to budget friendly options all-around town, there’s plenty of great options to choose from without disrupting the housing situation even more. If you’re looking for a longer stay, try to find a place to sublet on the Portuguese website OLX, the r/Portugal channel on Reddit or by asking around on Instagram.

There are lots of neighbourhoods to choose from, but please make an effort not to play loud music or yell after midnight (Cais do Sodré suffers intensely from this), tap into Lisbon’s nightlife scene for that.

Where to Find Good Accommodation in Lisbon

For many, Lisbon is a very safe city, which is why people choose to settle here for a while. It’s also why we have such a large population of Brazilians fleeing crime and political tensions back home, though our shared language and history also helps.

Now for everything you need to know about safety in Lisbon. Due to systemic racism there is a chance that you might be followed by store assistants if you’re Black. It’s frustrating, but it rarely gets worse than that. You can walk alone at night, but it’s best to avoid venturing into the suburbs after dark. Beware of bouncers in nightclubs, there are several examples of bad practices throughout the city and the best way to avoid them is to be chill and calm. There’s always some kind of a scandal in Portugal that links bouncers to gangs, so be conscious of that and tone down your chat outside clubs.

Don’t worry too much about moving with technology, the population is obsessed with their phones – along with cars, they’re the ultimate status symbol – which means you can take yours out without fear of being robbed.

There is a necessary warning to be issued though. When riding the tourist tram lines (identifiable by the massive queues), please be advised to keep your wallet in your hand. There is a long history of pickpocketing on the tram and the new generation of robbers are just as swift as the one that came before them.

Lisbon: The Safety Guide

Honestly, the police are mostly chill, but let’s take extra care to keep you out of trouble.

It’s public knowledge that the Portuguese police has too many far-right members, at least according to the European Committee against Racism and Intolerance. Even so, Portuguese police have become milder since the power trip they had during the fascist days, and if you’re nice to them, they might just surprise you and be nice back. Bear in mind that the traveller card is a thing, and it works like a charm.

Something that everyone in Lisbon has noticed is that the police are super calm with tourists compared with their treatment of locals (things tend to escalate). The idea that tourists are the ones bringing in much-needed money for the Portuguese economy means that everyone approaches them with very special care, and the police are no exception.

Apparently, they’re tired of drunk tourists asking them for directions (actually, everyone is), so please charge your phone before partying, so you can access a map quickly or call an Uber if you need to. The only places where police might really get involved are the kind of clubs you wouldn’t want to party at, like Urban Beach, more famous for its racial controversies and violent incidents than its lineups.

Police in Lisbon: What's the Stance?

Lisbon is a food destination. The city is obsessed with eating and it shows; the streets are lined with pastry shops selling freshly baked delicacies, the best of them nearly always have a line of people waiting for pastel de nata (the infamous custard tarts), Pastéis de Belém is a crowd favourite. The Portuguese are obsessed with eating and there is a saying that we are the only country in the world that always talks about what they’re having for dinner while having lunch. Drinking beer and wine on the esplanade is basically a national hobby, a huge part of Lisbon’s chill appeal.

For the best traditional food at fair prices, head to tascas and tabernas, small restaurants serving daily meals and Portuguese classics like cozido à portuguesa (Portuguese stew) and some of the most delicious cod dishes, like bacalhau à brás. They are super laid back, very noisy and full of life and energy. Go early as they get busy come lunchtime, especially after the closure of so many tascas as a result of rampant rent hikes.

Because of Portugal’s colonial past, you can find a variety of Brazilian and African restaurants serving dishes packed with flavour, but watch out for the jindungo and piri-piri if you can’t take the heat. Tasca do Fox is a great place to be introduced to Cape Verde’s national dish, cachupa, which is a slow cooked stew of sorts. They also make cachupa refogada, basically next-day cachupa, the perfect hangover cure.

Don’t be fooled by the idea that Lisbon’s beer is watered-down. The local favourites Super Bock and Sagres have around 5% alcohol, but on a sunny day, that’s enough. If you’re looking for craft beers, be sure to check out Musa at Bica, their snacks also slap. Natural wine is having a moment with cool bars pouring directly from local producers, check out Black Sheep, Vino Vero and Comida Independente (order the best pastrami sandwich in Lisbon while you’re there).

You can drink water directly from the tap and admire the huge aqueduct whilst you’re at it. Bring a reusable water bottle on your trip as there are chafarizes (water fountains) scattered throughout the city, serving as a reminder of a time where you had to walk for water. You can also ask for a copo de água (glass of water) at any café, Portuguese folks know how hot it gets.

The surge in Lisbon’s tourism has also provoked a funny phenomenon, where regional classics have gotten a revamp, think custard tarts made with chocolate and codfish-cakes with cheese. The wrath they got from the locals should make even the boldest of tourists a little hesitant to order them. To make up for that disgrace, an emerging generation of chefs have been adding a new energy to the food scene while paying respect to culinary traditions. Henrique Sá Pessoa’s Tapisco in Príncipe Real is a mixture of tasca and tapas, Jose Avillez’ Bairro do Avillez offers a new take on typical portuguese plates, and the buzzing food collective New Kids on The Block sure deserve the crowds that always flock to their events (or to Musa da Bica).

Where to Eat and Drink in Lisbon

 is old. So old that it became OK with the fact and started ageing gracefully. Come here for history, touch the centuries-old sculpted limestone and spot the historic details peeking through the modern buildings.

The rest of Portugal thinks Lisbon gets all the action, which isn’t far from the truth. Even though Lisbon is old, it’s never had so much groove. Emerging local artists are hosting shows unpacking the perils of gentrification, and expat communities from France and Brazil are adding a new layer to the creative scene, hosting events and festivals like Iminente. The flow that was set in motion by gentrification has impacted the food and wine scene too. Although we have some great traditional eateries, Lisbon has no shortage of natural wine and small plates, but we’ll talk more about that later.

The city’s signature quirky buildings, pastel palettes and vistas of the Tagus River are constantly being interrupted by ringing trams and the hum of packed cafes. Being right in the centre of Portugal, positioned on the Atlantic Ocean, location is a big part of Lisbon’s charm.

Summer is when Lisbon shines its brightest, with long hot nights and sandy beaches like Praia da Torre, Parede or Carcavelos just 20 minutes away. During the summer months, the spirit of the city is celebratory; this celebration of life is partly fuelled by the fear of losing your place at any given moment. The idea that the city might just slip through your fingers in the next rent spike has left the locals in a mood to cherish and celebrate, in between the protests.

Be warned: Lisbon is a very easy place to fall in love with. That’s why so many of its visitors wish to become citizens; the Portuguese government certainly helps with measures like the Golden Visa for house buyers and a brand new citizenship programme for digital nomads. As a result, rents keep skyrocketing. You’ll feel it when you’re here.

If you're planning to visit Lisbon, check out 

Lisbon: A Local's Guide

The myth goes something like this: One day, a bolt of lightning appeared and exploded into flames in an unknown land. Ulysses, mid-aventure, was then instructed by Zeus to build a city named Olissipo (modern day Lisbon) on the point of impact. This story has stumbled through the centuries, a favourite among locals to showcase just how old the city is.

Moving on from the myth, the fact is: Lisbon is older than Paris, London or even Rome. Due to its unique location where the Tagus River leads into the Atlantic Ocean, Phoenicians settled in Lisbon around 1200 BC. The Romans loved it too. Julius Caesar himself called it Felicitas Julia and made it a municipium. After the fall of the Roman Empire, it was ruled by Germanic tribes from the 5th century and captured by the Moors in the 8th century. In 1147, Dom Afonso Henriques conquered the city and since then it has been the political, economic and cultural centre of Portugal. It’s been a wild ride.

But it’s not all quirky facts and amusing timelines. Lisbon was the centre of Portuguese maritime exploration (a still applauded, but increasingly polemic topic in Portugal). In what is now Terreiro do Paço, ships brought spices from across the world, but as sad as it is, the spice trade is only a small part of the story. The Portuguese initiated the slave trade all by themselves and are calculated to be the country with the most bloodied hands. The country's colonial past plays a huge part in the multicultural feel Lisbon has today, and has contributed to the culture we now refer to as Portuguese. It’s easy to explain why colonialism is still so present; the Portuguese people feed off the problematic past as our last greatest “achievement”. The narrative of glory haunts the way we teach our children and how we perceive our nation; the architecture of the city also serves as a reminder of the past, with street names, dedicated monuments and two of the biggest malls named in ode to period.

As you roam the city, you can see remnants of the last millennium in the form of ruins peering through the modern architecture. Some of the most famous buildings are relics from the past, like the Jerónimos Monastery and the cathedral, Sé de Lisboa. Pay a visit to Museu do Carmo, a physical reminder of the destruction provoked by the 1755 earthquake that caused such a shock, it inspired a book by Voltaire.

Nowadays, the cultural scene is dominated by street art façades that showcase Lisbon’s crush on the arts, championed by local art juggernaut Vhils and the public art work of Underdogs gallery. The music from the suburbs has found its way into the clubs, with labels like Principe Discos bringing African rhythms to the centre of the nightlife scene. The city is packed with editors and writers from all over the world, creating a super inspiring dialogue and cultural exchange. In recent years, artists have flocked to the city too; locals and expats – lured in by the chilled lifestyle, beautiful landscape and modest price points – share gallery walls at spaces like Duplex Air.

Despite being free from religion (finally), centuries spent overdosing on catholicism can be seen in the amount of churches, cathedrals and monasteries throughout the city. As well as being liberated from religion, the country is also free from the 40- year-long dictatorship that plagued it, which prompted the end of the colonial war, brought democracy and filled Lisbon with carnations and a new-found freedom. Interesting fact: carnations became a symbol of Portuguese democracy after a florist gave them to soldiers, who put them on their weapons, celebrating a peaceful end to the fascist regime. Google images will show you what I’m talking about.

If you want to know more about Lisbon’s past, be sure to visit Bertrand Bookstore in Lisbon’s Chiado district. Established in 1732, it’s actually the oldest bookstore in the world, but has sadly been acquired by a chain now.

Lisbon's Cultural History

Public transport in Lisbon doesn’t work as efficiently as it should, you might be surprised by how it seems to move in slow-motion. Even though the underground is the most convenient (and cheapest) choice, it will probably take more than ten minutes to show up. If you’re on a leisure schedule, opt for public transport, but be warned about the random cancellations that can make moving around hectic.

As soon as you get to Lisbon, the best way to get from the airport to the city is by metro. Jump off close to your accommodation and avoid the unnecessary detours of taxi drivers. Buy a day ticket for Metro and Carris (buses) at any of the automatic machines. A day ticket will set you back €6.45 for the bus and metro, and €9.60 if you want to add a boat ride. But if you’re in a hurry, Uber or Bolt is your best option.

Travellers and tourists sure seem to prefer Uber and Bolt. Most fares around town are usually less than €10 and only rise if you’re going to check out the steel-and-glass Parque das Nações or exploring towns away from Lisbon like Cascais and Sintra (these fares are closer to €20 or €30). Taxi app fares are considerable for Portuguese budgets, but quite accessible to most tourists. To go to the beach, you can catch the train at Cais do Sodré and travel to Carcavelos in less than half an hour.

You’re going to want to snap a shot of the iconic yellow trams, but ride them for leisurely fun, not when you’re in a hurry. They are intercalated with modern trams, so it might not show up immediately. If you just want to ride around for the fun of it, go to Martim Moniz and catch the 28 Tram.

Taxi drivers have deserved their fame as extortionists, going on longer rides than usual with oblivious tourists in tow. Their taxis look very cool though, with the traditional mint-green on top of black. You can ride one around the city, but keep your eyes peeled for unnecessary detours.

Please be warned that while the two-wheel hype (that seems to hit travellers extra hard) can be practical and environmentally friendly, it can also be pretty dangerous. Lisbon is called the city of the seven hills, so prepare to sweat on the way up and expect a lot of extra speed on the way down. Reports of accidents aren’t uncommon, don’t let that be you. Ride around flat avenues like 24 de Julho (which takes you from Santos to Cais do Sodré) all you want, but maybe walk down Avenida da Liberdade so you can take in the views a lot better, while keeping your teeth intact.

On the other hand, you definitely have to cross the river in the old-style Cacilheiro boats. You can catch them at Cais do Sodré, a cool hood with plenty of places to grab coffee beforehand, and go straight to Cacilhas, a riverside district with mad views and plenty of cervejarias, as well as restaurants serving the freshest seafood. Portuguese people complain about how they should be modernised, but you should definitely go for a Wes Anderson-esque voyage, if only for just fifteen to twenty minutes. The view from Cacilhas shows Lisbon in all its glory, it’s worth the trip.

Walk around the city as much as you can and fall in love with the vistas, but be aware of sudden inclines. The city is built on seven different hills, which means that flat areas are limited to the riverside.