Hena is a culture writer, content creator and musician based in London. She has written for publications like CNN Style and Travel, i-D and New Wave. Her Indian heritage and time spent living internationally informs her work and creative output. She enjoys shining a light on the best of South Asian creativity from around the world with her words.


Hena Sharma

The experience of travelling as a South Asian isn’t written about enough. Though there are a wealth of accounts documenting the experiences of Western travellers in South Asian countries, there is a serious lack of discourse on the experiences of South Asians who love to travel themselves.

With a huge diaspora scattered around the world, South Asian travel experiences are rich and wildly diverse; largely based on upbringing, country of origin and, unfortunately, your passport in some instances. 

To fill this gap, we reached out to our South Asian community members to better understand both the good and bad they’ve faced whilst travelling. We hope with this, other South Asian travellers will feel inspired, educated and prepared for any challenges they might face when heading abroad. With the help of the South Asian Trippin community, we have compiled a list of travel tools and “words of wisdom”, whether you’re preparing to leave the nest, planning a solo trip or navigating airport difficulties in a post-9/11 world.

As a South Asian traveller, airport security can be hit-or-miss. Racial profiling is not uncommon in airports as a Brown person; this terms refers to the discriminatory practice of law enforcement officials targetting individuals for crime based on their race, ethnicity, religion or national origin…something South Asians have faced more of, particularly after the 9/11 terrorist attacks.

Pakistani-British traveller, Jawas Abbas explains how he has always been subject to “random searches” when going through airport security. “In Germany, out of a queue of about 40 people waiting to board, a guard came over to tell me to stand to the side. I got physically searched and my passport details were run through their computer. When asked why, I received the standard answer, 'this is just for precautions’.”

When interviewing South Asian travellers for this piece, Germany came up a lot as somewhere that is difficult to navigate as a Brown person. London based Nylo, who is an avid traveller and model of mixed Mauritian-Pakistani heritage shares, “no shade to Germany but…the worst kind of racial discrimination that I’ve experienced has been there.”

For Nylo, “I just experienced excessive searching, certain looks, stares.” Travelling in a group of mainly POC and Black women on a trip to Berlin only seemed to make security personnel extra vigilant.

 "I was wearing super baggy trousers, I layered-up but they were aggressively putting their hands down my trousers, and I was seeing the white people in front of me kind of just walk on through. I was like ‘damn…why does this happen to me." - Nylo

Similarly, Chloe Dorlikar who is half-Indian, half-English explains that while she is often checked in airport security, her father who is originally from Nagpur, India and is “dark-skinned, always gets checked.” Airport security experiences can vary based on your skin tone and passport issuing country. A South Asian person who is white-passing may not be subject to the same scrutiny as someone with a deeper skin tone. Likewise, there are also “passport privileges” which can alter experiences. Someone holding a Pakistani passport may face more checks than a British-Pakistani person, who holds a British passport.

In most cases, you will get through security without problems, but just be aware that in some European countries and North America, there tends to be more racial profiling based on skin tone, passport and even names. Shabs who is Bangladeshi-British shared with us, “I'm always checked as I have a Muslim name. I once took a brand press trip to NYC with a group of journalists and influencers. I was boarding a business class trip and got checked-in at the airport lounge (which is 

Similarly, Meg Venkatesh, who is Indian-American, explained to us her frustration, “I genuinely cannot think of a single time (before I got TSA pre-check) where I have not been stopped by USA security.”

Remember your rights when going through airport security. According to the Civil Aviation Authority, aviation security staff have no powers to search, but a refusal of being searched could mean you will not be permitted to fly. Airport security staff are permitted to manually search your bag, make you go through a metal scanner which allows them to see under your clothing. You are allowed to refuse this, and ask for a pat down instead.

If you opt for a pat-down, you can ask if the person performing this is of the same gender, request a person is present while this is happening. You’re also allowed to request a private screening if sensitive body parts are being patted and searched. Travellers have the right to resist removing any pieces of clothing to reveal a body area. This may include the Turban for Sikh men, for example, who can request to pat down their own turban if they are brought in for a search. Muslim women who wear a Hijab can request to be searched by a female airport officer if it is required for them to remove their scarf.


Going through airport security can be an intense and laborious process, especially when some airport officers are not aware of the cultural significance of certain dress items and objects. Try to stay calm when going through airport security and remember your rights which have been outlined above. Each airport is different though, so please use the advice we have provided as a guidelines which are subject to where in the world you are. This is a great resource if you are travelling through 

 as a Brown person. This resource can help you understand your rights travelling through 

Remember that you are who you are and it 

 wrong that you may be stopped without any need or reason. If that situation does occur though, follow the instructions of airport security and do your best to not escalate the situation. Attempt to get the name of the officer if any type of issue occurs so you can bring it up with the police, rather than engage in confrontation.

Though travelling is generally seen as something that expands our minds and improves our mental wellbeing, there can be times abroad when that’s not the case. Some of our South Asian travel community shared some of the time when they’ve faced discrimination when travelling due to their background. Nylo shares, “the only prejudice I really face because of my skin colour is when I go to Europe”. This sentiment is echoed in the experiences of Jaishree Chhiba who is a New Zealand-born Gujarati:

“In Budapest we (three POC) were refused seating at a restaurant while other white patrons were all seated in front of and behind us. The whole city would stare at us everywhere we walked and it just made us feel awful. We tried to just put our heads down and ignore that all-too-familiar feeling of being an 'outcast’” - 

Planning a holiday and eagerly researching a destination, only to feel unwelcome upon arrival is an unfortunate experience shared by many of the South Asian travellers that we spoke to. Jai Toor, a British-Punjabi photographer gave us some insight into what he and his friends faced in Barcelona:

“When travelling in Barcelona, I faced discrimination due to my skin colour. Bottles were thrown at us from buildings. Alongside this, me and some friends were not let into any clubs by the bouncer and it was clearly because of our skin colour. On reflection, the trip was still good, however, it was the anxieties of going to other places around Barcelona that made me feel uncomfortable.” - Jai Toor

If the situation becomes dangerous and violent, call the local police. Have the number of your country’s consulate saved on your phone as well, so you can call them if you get into any trouble.

Not all South Asian travelling experiences, of course, come with racial discrimination and prejudice. The trend that we have noticed is that Europe tends to be where South Asian travellers seem to face the most discrimination and prejudice.

Ultimately, travelling as a South Asian person comes with its own unique experiences. South Asians can be wrongly discriminated against in airports and on holiday. This is definitely a difficulty, but should by no means stop you from pursuing your dream to travel. With the tips, tricks and shared experiences above, we hope you will feel inspired to keep travelling.


South Asian and Abroad

So many of the world’s most beautiful destinations are facing ecological decline because of the climate crisis and overtourism, but being a more conscious traveller can help slow this process down a little. Skipping tourist hotspots and going off-grid can actually have a positive impact on local communities and contribute to conservation efforts. 

But what does off-grid actually mean? Leaving the luxuries at home, and by luxuries we mean electrical power, phone signal, gas and water supply. Travelling off-grid is an amazing way to get out of your comfort zone and explore a part of the world that is typically unseen. It allows you to go offline and immerse yourself in nature. Exactly because of that, though, it’s important to be extra diligent and always take a responsible approach.


It can be tricky to understand how to implement this when you’re travelling in the wilderness. To make this subject matter a little easier to navigate, we spoke to BBC Earth explorer and eco-conservation expert 

. His tips below outline the various ways we can all be more responsible when exploring some of the most remote corners of the globe.

It’s not always possible to follow everything listed below to a T, as Dan explains, “it rains so true that we need a lot of people doing things imperfectly”. Small commitments can go a long way.

Engage with the local community & support eco tourism

Always support local-owned businesses and initiatives; book your trip through a local tour company or volunteer with local conservation sites. As Dan mentions, “local people are custodians of their environment”, working with them helps keep the community employed and in turn, more money is directed towards environmental conservation.

By working with locals, learning from them, and being guided by them through their native environments you also gain a much more personal and cultural understanding of the location. Many local areas also run conservation initiatives to get involved in. Ecotourism is another great way to gain lots of valuable knowledge while ensuring both the local community and environment benefit.

When Dan went off-grid in Guyana, he worked with friend and eco-conservationist Ashley Holland who operates a remote touring company, Guyana Truly Wild. The company specialises in creating tailored expeditions in the heart of the island’s wilderness for anyone “who loves wildlife, wild places, and adventure”. The team at Guyana Truly Wild is made up of indigenous Guyanese peoples who have in-depth knowledge of Guyana’s unique landscape. We recommend researching the remote travel companies that interest you and align with your values.

When you are off-grid, follow the principles of “leave no trace”. This essentially means, do not disturb the environment and surrounding area when passing through – leave it exactly as you found it.

Don’t create new paths, stick to the ones that are already present to avoid disturbing fragile ecosystems. By walking in single file, you can avoid trampling on wildflowers and established animal habitats. Also, avoid feeding any animals you come across as it can teach them unhealthy habits which could – in the long term – harm their chances of survival in the wild.

Dispose of all waste and trash in proper bins once you have left the area, this includes organic waste like apple cores and peels. Though it’s easy to assume waste like fruit would decompose when off-grid, they may not necessarily be endemic to the area. Dan tells us, “even if you think it’s biodegradable, it might not be the right thing for that environment”, waste can disturb the delicate ecosystem, especially when it’s not native to the area.

Avoid taking any harmful chemicals which could have lasting effects on the environment.

“If you’re going off-grid I think the biggest one is not to take in chemicals that help you but don’t help where it’s going. Don’t take in non-biodegradable soap, it’s super easy to find biodegradable soap that you can use in a river and it won’t damage the ecosystem. Try to find alternatives to things like Deet and mosquito repellent.”

“There’s loads of herbal remedies that really work like eating garlic tablets. Don’t take Deets, try to remember chemicals can have such a lasting effect on an environment after you’ve left, even if it may not make much of a difference when you go, if people keep doing it, eventually it will.”

If you smoke, don’t leave the ends on the ground.

If you use fire or an open flame, make sure you put it out fully – this also goes for cigarette butts as it could potentially cause a devastating forest fire. Before creating a fire of any kind, first check whether fires are permitted in the environment.

When going off-grid it’s important to pack light as you will be carrying it around with you for long periods of time. Packing light also means less waste. Bring reusable items like cutlery, water bottles, straws etc.

Always follow the ways of the local guide when you’re off-grid, if you have one that is. Dan tells us, “(When in Guyana) We just lived very much a subsistence lifestyle of the Amerindian guides and the people we were with. So they will go out and hunt for fish, we’d have fish for breakfast, lunch and dinner.”

Listen carefully to what your guide has to say and keep note of any do’s and don’ts.

How Can We Become More Responsible Travellers When We Go Off-Grid? 

"Ask anyone who’s ever been to Accra... whether it's their first time or not, they find themselves not wanting to leave. Ghana is the spot." - King Promise

King Promise and Headie One have bonded over their shared heritage and love for showcasing Ghanaian sounds and creativity to the world since they met in 2019. The cultural relationship between London with Accra runs deep within history, with the city having a rich Ghanaian presence for centuries, particularly in areas like Tottenham and Croydon. This established and well-integrated community in London still maintains ties to their homeland, creating a buzzing relationship between both city’s creative scenes which has fostered a unique blend of cultural sounds, fashion and art. For their most recent collab, Headie One and King Promise came together on the shores of their motherland, Ghana, to film the music video for “

We caught up with them to hear about the time they spent there, their relationship to Ghana and to get the lowdown on why they keep going back.

How would you describe the energy of Accra?

 Ask anyone who’s ever been to Accra.. whether it's their first time or not, they find themselves not wanting to leave. Ghana is the spot. Great nightlife, amazing food & absolutely lovely people.

Ghana is too sweet. It’s the motherland! How can you not love it?

What’s Ghana’s creative & fashion scene like right now?

 The Ghanaian creative and fashion scene is popping crazy right now with a lot of young creatives doing dope stuff. Streetwear culture is big in Ghana & the new crop of young talented designers are killing it at the moment.

What are some of your favourite things about your home country?

  A lot of things I could say but I can definitely say our food, our music, our culture, nightlife & just the peace & tranquility!

 I was “shipped” back in the days as a kid (lol) now I try to go once a year. Ghana is home.

What’s a memorable experience from your recent trip there?

 There’s nothing compared to the street love out in Ghana seeing my people chasing down my car screaming out my name.

Ghana

Accra

Headie One & King Promise Take Ghana

“LA is so large, your experience will always depend on who you're with. Different LA people are tapped into different scenes, so it really depends who you’re surrounding yourself with. Make sure you’ve got some good people around you when you come to LA and you'll have a great time.” - Miguel

 may work in completely different fields, but they are brought together by their love of food. Both LA-born and raised, they have witnessed the city’s culinary scene expand and evolve over the years and become one of America’s main food hubs.

“Los Angeles is a cultural melting pot by nature so we have food from all over the world,”

 says Jeremy, a key personality in LA’s food scene who has three restaurants. The city has a diverse range of immigrant communities which has enriched the culinary landscape and allowed a myriad of cuisines to flourish. From Korean to Japanese and Mexican, Miguel loves that 

“you can really find great renditions of any food type”

 in LA. Cross-cultural fusions aren’t uncommon either.

Such fusions in food have been explored in new show “Beats for Breakfast,” a short format cooking show which launched in April on Facebook Watch. Conceptualised and created by Miguel, the series features Jeremy cooking up a dish as Miguel produces a beat. In Episode 5, Jeremy makes a 

 which combines elements of his French, Caribbean and Tunisian heritage with Miguel’s Mexican side -- "a love letter to Los Angeles," said Jeremy on the show.

As LA natives, Miguel and Jeremy have some advice on the best ways to explore the city for the first time:

“Find someone who knows the city well,”

“There’s such an inaccurate perception that Los Angeles is Hollywood and a three block radius surrounding La Cienega.”

“LA is so large, your experience will always depend on who you're with. Different LA people are tapped into different scenes, so it really depends who you’re surrounding yourself with. Make sure you’ve got some good people around you when you come to LA and you'll have a great time.”

“Venture out to the East Side, there’s a whole world that people don’t know as much about. It’s such a big city and it’s hard to take it all in at once,”

“I’d mix all the touristy activities and try to peel more of the layers back to discover the beautiful cultural melting pot that this city is,”

Jeremy recommends steering clear of Instagrammable avo-toast and opt for LA’s great sushi options. 

“I may be biased because it’s my favorite food but we just have so many amazing Japanese restaurants here. It’s not necessarily a specific dish but I’d say that anywhere you’re staying in Los Angeles will have access to an amazing local hole-in-the-wall sushi spot.”

Miguel suggests a different but equally as popular cuisine to get stuck into once you’ve landed and exited LAX

"One word, TACOS. It's all about the quality of the meat and the SALSA at the end of the day."

Whether it’s salmon nigiri or smoked salmon pizza that you’re after, Miguel and Jeremy’s LA food guide has got you covered. Using their local insider knowledge, they take us on a culinary journey around the city, picking out their favourite eateries in 

United States

Los Angeles 

Miguel and Jeremy Fall Break Down LA Food Culture

Thanks to Nylo, Anam Hakeem, Alex Singhal, Jai Toor, Jawas Abbas, Husnain Ahmed and Jamie Padda.

 we compiled both the good and bad experiences of our South Asian community when travelling abroad. Their travel experiences wildly varied depending on factors like which passport they held, where in the world they were exploring but also complex issues like skin tones and surnames. In this travel tool, members from our community of South Asian heritage give you their words of wisdom, including ways to ‘leave the nest’ and follow your own travel desires, embarking on a solo travelling adventure and navigating ‘Chameleon Syndrome’ when you’re on a trip.

Sometimes it can be difficult to break from the nest. Though this is by no means true for all South Asian families, there can be notions of “collectivism” present within families and family dynamics for some. Ansuni Stories, a collective aimed at opening up discussions for South Asian women about family dynamics, unpacks this for us:

“A collectivist culture is one where the needs and expectations of the community are placed above those of the individual.” This notion can at times lead to children not being able to pursue their individual interests (for example, travel). This was the case for Pakistani-Canadian traveller Anam Hakeem or 

. Her article about travelling solo as a South Asian Woman highlighted that in terms of travel, ‘getting my parents’ permission was hard for me. When I took my first trip to the US, my family simply couldn’t understand my motivations. They’d get mad at me and my mum would cry a lot. I really had to stand my ground about travelling being my dream.”

Nylo, a dual heritage Mauritian-Pakistani model, comes from a family of travellers and has been actively encouraged to travel by her parents and grandparents growing up. Being Indo-Mauritian means her ancestors have migrated for generations, having been brought from India to Mauritius by the British to work on sugar plantations post-slavery. “Being from an island like Mauritius, most are not native to that island. We were all brought there essentially.” On top of that, her grandfather was a naval officer, and had the chance to travel across the US, Haiti and further with his work. “It was my grandparents that encouraged me to travel and kind of see my heritage, and my mum just ultimately wants me to live my best life.”

If your parents are particularly anxious about you wanting to travel, it may be an idea to update them regularly on the trip. Send them pictures and keep them in the loop and make use of how connected our world is, regardless of where in the world you are.

Travelling solo can be one of the most liberating experiences, it pushes you out of your comfort zone to try new things and see the world. We asked our community for their tips on travelling solo.

Nylo told us, “The advice I’d give is really just do your research – luckily there’s a huge community of travellers online that give reviews on places, even on Instagram, TikTok, websites, Twitter. So I do think there’s a big travel community.” She also cautions that – as a South Asian woman – she has sometimes faced exoticisation/feticisation in some destinations. Be vigilant of your surroundings when abroad, especially when travelling solo, “if you are travelling solo, just make sure you’re taking all the precautions”, we suggest making friends with people in your accommodation so you have an extra pair of eyes.

Jamie Padda shares, “I think you need to just trust your gut. Everywhere on this planet can be dangerous. I think treating locals with respect is the number one rule. They might be the ones looking out for you and you won’t even know it. Putting out positive vibes is important. I’ve been in some very dangerous neighbourhoods and I found that if you have good vibes, people want to talk to you, and show you a good time.”

Alex Singhal tells us, “Learn the language for sure. In South America, most people assumed I was a local so they would speak to me in slangy Spanish so I picked up a bit. This also means that when you meet locals you can break the ice with those sayings. Don't dress flash with jewellery!”


Husnain Ahmed notes, “Be careful! Don’t make immature decisions, always be polite and stay calm regardless of how tired and frustrated you are. Travelling solo is such a beautiful experience and you learn a lot about yourself but you need to just face the facts when it comes to how you’ll be treated by certain individuals because of your name, religion or appearance but just find the right crowd/environments and focus on that.”

There is so much beauty in travel, experiencing a new land and people, interacting with those that live there and seeing how life is outside of your own personal bubble.

Pakistani-British traveller, Jawas Abbas, always found the best interactions occurred when he was just being open, friendly and willing to talk to strangers when travelling. “Don't be afraid to put yourself out there, be open, converse with as many people as you can. This can lead to random, unforeseen, amazing events when you openly engage with someone else. Try to risk comfort for the discovery of new experiences.”

Husnain suggests using your South Asian heritage to your advantage when you travel. Use travelling as an opportunity to meet other South Asians from across the world, “I have some horror stories about being robbed, lost and locked out of my Airbnb, and in all those situations I found someone from my background who treated me like a brother and literally fed me.”


Punjabi-British photographer Jai Toor, discovered communities he never expected on his travels to Italy, “I travelled to Italy in December 2021. As a Sikh, I was fascinated by the large community that resides in northern areas like Bologna and Novellara. It is the largest Sikh community in Europe outside the UK and has the first-ever European gurdwara.”

Some travellers experience what can be best described as a Chameleon Syndrome: you may outwardly look South Asian, but have a Westernised upbringing.

Nylo shares how in Mauritius, she is often seen as a foreigner despite looking outwardly South Asian and being half-Mauritian. “I’m a British Asian person. They see you and think, ‘Wow you’re a foreigner’. Even in Mauritius, guys can sense that you’re not from there. I don’t even look the part most of the time. I feel like I’m used to sticking out like a sore thumb which I’m okay and brave enough to navigate. But sometimes, it is kind of hard.”

Alex Singhal tells us that sometimes when he travels, he blends in with locals and this gives him a deeper understanding of the way of life, “What I love about when I go travelling to other countries is that I seem to blend into the people (as long as I keep my mouth shut) and people find it hard to guess where I'm from. Like a child of the world.”


There is so much beauty in travel: it creates new conversations, generates refreshing experiences and can truly push you outside of your comfort zone. The experiences shared above are in no way in full representation of the entire South Asian travelling experience, but we hope it gives you an insight into what to expect and how to navigate bumps along the road.

Words of Wisdom For South Asian Travellers

"Queer lives and livelihoods and expressions might look different from the freedoms and the technicolor pride you so hold in such high esteem, but these people are living, dancing, loving, fighting and they are and going absolutely nowhere for anybody. There is queer joy and love on the ground, there always is. You just have to look for it."

British imperialism has undoubtedly left scars on its former colonies. A repressive and exploitative system, colonialism exported valuable resources out of nations, but also imported and enforced new ways of thinking - like homophobia. “In many countries around the world which were colonised by the British Empire, anti-LGBTQ+ laws and queerphobic attitudes often have vestiges of, or find their origins in, colonial-era laws implanted as part of their crusade,” says Otamere Guobadia, queer activist and writer, in an interview with us.

This was first seen with British implicated law Section 377. It criminalised male sexuality and all sexual acts which were considered to be “against the order of nature.” The law was first enforced in India in 1861 and was put into place by colonial administrators who were keen to push their notions of morality onto their ‘subjects.’ The penal code was based on conservative Victorian-era values, where sexual activity outside of the purpose of procreation was considered taboo. Enze Han, author of 'British Colonialism and the Criminalisation of Homosexuality', explained in an 

 that the British also instilled these laws as they perceived non-Western subjects to be overly-erotic. “They were worried young colonial officers going abroad would be corrupted by those sexual acts.”

India’s Section 377 law was used as a blueprint and spread across the Empire after 1861. “It would take 150 years for the law to be repealed” by India, explains Otamere. These British imported anti-LGBT penal codes are still exercised in some former colonies like Singapore, Myanmar and Jamaica today. In 2021, of 

 that have laws that criminalise same-sex relations, approximately 45 of these were once British colonies or protectorates.

Former British Prime Minister, Theresa May, recognised at the 2018 Commonwealth Heads of Governments meeting, Britain’s role in introducing anti-LGBTQI+ legislation, which, for some countries, has now become entrenched in cultural values. "I am all too aware that these laws were often put in place by my own country. They were wrong then, and they are wrong now." She urged countries still upholding the century-old law to repeal it, calling it “outdated.”

Some countries like India, Botswana and Trinidad & Tobago have changed their stance. In a landmark 2018 ruling, the Indian Supreme Court declared Section 377 to be “unconstitutional.” This change was largely thanks to grassroot activists like Dhrubo Jyoti who said in an interview, “this law was not ours. This was not a law that has organically developed in our society". 

In many countries colonised by the British, anti-LGBTQ+ laws did not exist before the UK introduced them. As stated by Zing Tsjeng of VICE World News in her series ‘Empire of Dirt', “many of Britain’s former colonies don’t have histories of being hateful towards LGBTQ people.”

Otamere would agree, and says “there's plenty of evidence to suggest that many countries, like my native Nigeria, had conceptions and expressions of gender and sexuality that might to our modern eyes be ostensibly queer.” It’s still important to recognise, though, that this is a complicated subject. Some countries have never been acceptant of same-sex relations and many countries have only strengthened their anti-LGBT laws post-independence. There runs the risk, says Otamere, of “anachronistically fetishising the idea of these pre-colonial societies as these sorts of queer utopias. Rather, it’s important to realise, “how much was lost, and how incomprehensible it is to us now. A whole world, whole ways of being, whole paradigms, stolen, erased, lost irrevocably to us forever.”

Some accounts of historic acceptance are still available to us though. Hijra, a term which refers to transgender and intersex people in South Asia, were largely accepted and revered by society pre-colonisation. 

They are mentioned in ancient texts (e.g. the 

), have a 4000 year-old history and were considered to have religious authority. 

, the British, however, saw them as “ungovernable” and made efforts to erase and target them with laws -- it was only in 2014 that India overturned these laws and recognised them as a third gender.

Sheba Akpokli, an LGBTQ+ rights activist from Togo, explained in a 

 that Togo also has historical words referring to the third gender, like 

. Sheba explains they were once esteemed parts of Togolese society -- in 2021, however, homosexuality is illegal in Togo. Some African countries had 

 before colonisation and the spread of Christian fundamentalism -- both are seen to have caused a loss in cultural attitudes toward gender and sexual identity. Overall, there are many accounts that suggest same-sex relations were 

 across the continent prior to colonisation.

Some countries, though, have further tightened their inherited anti-gay laws such as Nigeria and Uganda. Currently, over half of the countries that still ban LGBTQ+ relations are in Africa with the laws often left in place following independence. Unfortunately, many nations which previously had more tolerant views towards same-sex relations are now unwilling to change their laws.

Otamere attributes this to fears of neo-colonialism and that many nations are apprehensive to once again be morally led by the United Kingdom. It does not help when officials (like 

) financially threaten countries to change their anti-LGBT stances. “Attempts at moral or cultural imposition, particularly those made on global stages under threat of sanction and censure, can feel incredibly paternalistic, and just more attempts at imperialism" Otamere says.

Generations later, many African nations may view these anti-LGBTQI+ laws as ingrained parts of their culture, viewing homosexuality as a Western import. This is highlighted in how the former President of Zimbabwe, Robert Mugabe labelled homosexuality as a “white disease.”

Even though countries have anti-LGBT laws, Otamere wants to stress to queer travellers that the world is still for you to travel, explore and experience. “I think the best way to feel safer travelling as a queer person, first and foremost, is to recognise that laws are not the people they govern.” Governments may not always represent the views and opinions of their people. There are often thriving scenes where you may not expect, even with the strictest of governments.

“For every country with the most oppressive and prohibitive anti-LGBT laws on the books, there's a thriving, persevering community of people living and breathing resistance. Oftentimes their resistance necessitates diplomacy, sometimes it requires that they make themselves smaller and hide their truths to survive, but their truths, endure, glimmer, are legitimate as any others. 

Their queer lives and livelihoods and expressions might look different from the freedoms and the technicolor pride you so hold in such high esteem, but these people are living, dancing, loving, fighting and they are and going absolutely nowhere for anybody. There is queer joy and love on the ground, there always is. You just have to look for it.” 

Britain’s Colonial Legacy Still Affects LGBTQ+ Laws Globally

Photography: Jules Devoldere and Arnaud De Decker

As we advanced through the lake, we noticed there was very little water - it looked like a swamp or something. As we advanced much more, we realised it looked like a desert" - Jules Devoldere

Mexico is currently facing its worst drought in 30 years. Though it’s a recurring phenomenon, due to the effects of climate change, this year’s conditions have been unrelenting. Documentary photographer Jules Devoldere and his collaborator Arnaud De Decker, a journalist and international reporter, spent the early half of this year in Mexico. Together they captured this drought and the effects it has had on local communities living between the states of Michoacán and Guanajuato.

“We looked into environmental and sustainability issues to cover and we found this particular story when we were in Mexico City doing research.” As they spoke to locals around Mexico, they learnt more about what the country was experiencing. “We were told that the rain has been so unpredictable and it’s been so dry that the inhabitants aren’t really able to rely on water coming during the first months of the rainy season,” says Jules.

Though it was May, the start of the wet season, the lakes ran dry and there was no rainfall to be seen. The pair travelled 300 km west of the capital to the area surrounding Lake Cuitzeo to see one of the worst hit water bodies and communities.

Mexico has been affected by drought for the past couple of years. “The rainy season has been getting shorter every year and the amount of rain that falls has been less and less every year as well,” Jules explains to us. NASA highlighted in their “Widespread Drought in Mexico” 

that “nearly 85 percent of Mexico is experiencing drought, with water sources dwindling. One of the water bodies that has been exceptionally dry is Lake Cuitzeo, with around 70% of it without water.

"As we advanced through the lake, we noticed there was very little water - it looked like a swamp or something. As we advanced much more, we realised it looked like a desert" - Jules Devoldere

Before the current drought, Lake Cuitzeo was the lifeblood of Michoacán’s flourishing fishing economy. But since the building of dams and two motorways that split the lake in half, Lake Cuitzeo has slowly deteriorated. This new infrastructure increased the surface area of the lake, which only causes the water to evaporate at a faster rate, thereby making it even more sensitive to drought. With a 2.5 degree global warming trajectory, the drought and water shortages are 

as Mexico gets hotter and the droughts worsen.

Lake Cuitzeo, known to be the second largest water reservoir in Mexico, usually fills up over the rainy season. It’s then used by the whole community from local farmers and fishers to families doing their laundry. When Jules and Arnaund arrived at the lake, however, they discovered it to be a shell of its former self.

Fifty-two-year-old Augustin Rodriguez, a father and fisherman, is one of the people affected by this water crisis. "We are used to the fact that this part of the lake is drier at this time of the year. That's how we've always known it. But this is the second year in a row that we have had to wait so long for rain. It's getting drier. If it gets even drier in the coming years, this will become a dead zone and everyone will have to leave,” he explained to Jules and Augustin.


Augustin is not the only inhabitant affected by this -- the whole community is. As reported by 

, only around 350 farmers, ranchers and fishermen remain in San Nicolás Cuiritzeo, a neighbourhood close to Lake Cuitzeo. The lake is known as the “economic lung” of the region, with approximately 4,000 families relying on it. That’s 4,000 families that could potentially become displaced.

Now, there exists a “graveyard of boats” instead, says Jules. There are 28 fishing villages along the banks of Lake Cuitzeo, but without any water, the boats lie on dry and cracked earth. Though the Mexican government has made it more affordable for fishermen to purchase boats, there is little point when there is no water in the lake, Jules points out. People need to rely on the community to provide water, like Don Victor, who hosted Jules and Arnaud in his 

 or homestead which sits on top of a natural water source.

Don Victor is referred to by the community as “El Hombre Del Agua” or “The Man of the Water.” His land is located on the eastern, lower side of the lake, where natural freshwater deposits exist and year-round humidity keeps the area green. Most importantly, though, there is an abundance of drinking water. Victor takes it upon himself to deliver water from his supply to neighbouring villages and communities after witnessing little support coming from local municipalities. This has earned him the respect of those in the area and the affectionate title of “The Man of the Water.”

Every week, he fills up 30 large water bottles from his source and loads it into his pickup truck to sell and distribute. “A lot of people know him, he took us to people that had something to say about the water… I spent one day with him going through other villages to pick up empty water jugs then he would fill and sell them,” said Jules.

“It's my duty to help the people...Thousands of people are suffering from the drought. The little water they still get from the wells runs out, and they then have to share it with the animals. It is difficult” - Don Victor

Victor has one of the only swimming pools in the entire region, filled by the groundwater from under his land

 He allows children and mothers to use it and hosts swimming lessons for the community. The juxtaposition stuck with Jules, who could see the desertified Lake Cuitzeo in the background of Victor’s lush swimming pool.

“When I stood up on a balcony, I could observe the swimming classes taking place in the green garden, while seeing the desert-like lake in the back, behind the walls of the 

. A pretty surreal contrast if you think about it. The pool always had water from the groundwater well underneath the hacienda.”

The lack of water is not the only issue facing those living around Lake Cuitzeo. There are also health risks involved with the lake drying up. There’s algae production at the bottom of the lake that is caused by farmers dumping toxic chemicals and pesticides into the water. “Once the algae has dried up, it turns into dust and the wind takes it across the lake. They’re very harmful for your lungs actually because there’s also remains of pesticides in them,” says Jules. Cars and other vehicles use the dry lake bed as a shortcut, causing huge swathes of dust clouds to form, spreading dried algae and bacteria 20 km away in the air.

When in Mexico, the pair spoke to Professor Arturo Chacón Torres of Michoacan University of San Nicolás de Hidalgo, who specialises in Environmental Sciences. He explained that pollution of the waterways and human activity is a large part of the problem -- on top of rising temperatures.

“Almost 30 villages are located on the shores of the lake. They all discharge their waste water directly into the lake. The same goes for the farmers and factories in the nearby industrial areas. The water then turns black, we say 

 here. When you see cows and goats drinking from it, you know it can't be healthy.”

Infrastructure issues and mismanagement is something that has contributed to the lake’s disappearance. “The amount of rain that Mexico receives should be sufficient if it is properly stored and managed. Losses can’t be avoided due to deteriorating infrastructure,” explains Torres.

Lake Cuitzeo is not the only body of water in Mexico that is running dry. The situation is indicative of what is happening within much of the country, and in fact across much of the world. 

, located on the outskirts of Toluca, central Mexico, is also one experiencing water shortages.It’s relied upon by 9 million inhabitants in Mexico City, along with two other reservoirs. As of April 2021, however, Villa Victoria Dam was at one-third of its capacity. Considering it is the one of the main water supplies for the capital’s residents, its emptiness is a reminder of the severity of Mexico’s climate crisis.

As COP26 starts next week, it will be interesting to see what Mexico’s climate change plans are in the wake of its current situation. As the second-largest greenhouse gas emitter in Latin America in the midst of a water crisis, many are wondering how Mexico will mitigate its climate issues with policies and action. Some feel concerned by Mexico having not met many of the goals made in the 2015 Paris Agreements.

Poorer residents in rural areas, those with the smallest carbon footprints, are feeling the brunt of the effects of climate change in Mexico and some are no longer willing to wait for policy adaptations. Many are opting to move out of the region or even to the United States, becoming what are now called “climate refugees,” says Jules. Although “many try to find work in construction or in carpentry, there are a lot of people trying to move to other regions or to the States to try and escape the climate crisis. There aren’t a lot of people that succeed.” A lack of funds and financial sustainability means many of these climate refugees migrate back, joining the others that are seemingly “doomed to stay.”

As much as these problems are localised, they’re also part of a wider issue. The Global North produces more CO2 and plastic waste than the Global South, but countries like Mexico are less financially and infrastructurally developed to deal with climate change’s adverse effects.

Still, says Professor Torres, Mexicans are growing frustrated with their government and lack of action. 

 have been created with over 40,000 signatures in response to Lake Cuitzeo. “The governments of Michuacán and Guanajuato are barely doing anything to improve the situation,” says Torres.

Mexico

Mexico City 

Mexico's Worst Drought in 30 Years Has Dried Out This Lake

You may think hailing one of the many taxis off the road is the right way to get around in Hong Kong, but locals might disagree.

Instead, some suggest taking one of Hong Kong’s Red Minibuses (RMB), or Public Light Buses, which are iconic parts of the busy and bustling city to get you to wherever you’re headed (and for a fraction of a taxi fare, too). Cheap and speedy with no fixed route or fare, these buses are known for unapologetically defying so many rules of the road, but also for taking passengers to hard-to-reach areas. Over time, the RMB have carved their own place within the hearts of Hong Kongers and left their mark on the city’s cultural landscape. Though they have been around for the better part of 50 years, these handy modes of transport seem to be slowly disappearing and getting lost within Hong Kong’s complex and ever-improving public transport network of MTR subways, trams, taxis and more. This is much to the disappointment of Hong Kong music collective and transient think-tank, Yeti Out.

The collective loves all the quirks -- and perks -- that come with riding the famously untamed and unregulated Red Minibuses. Yeti Out, who bridges east and west with its series of pop-up raves, art installations and record releases celebrates the euphoria of late nights and early mornings -- much like the RMB. Its projects are a reflection of youth movements that shape creative culture in cities that never sleep and are based in London, Shanghai and Hong Kong. We linked up with the members of the collective to better understand their passion for these red-topped vans that take you on a no-frills trip from A to B (at least most of the time).

The Red Minibuses are certainly not a new thing for Hong Kong, instead, they have an interesting origin story which dates back to the British colonial era. The minibuses “started as a semi-illegal transportation born out of the 1967 riots,” says Arthur Bray, one of the founders of Yeti Out. The riots were led by communists who were inspired by the Cultural Revolution happening in China at the time. Rioters became determined to overthrow the British presence in Hong Kong, leaving the city gripped by protests and strikes. As bus drivers joined in on the protests, it brought the main line of public transport to a stop and led to local minibus services stepping in.

“The government is giving out fewer licenses to Red Minibuses (which are privately owned and rented) than its counterpart Green Minibuses (ran by government and more prominently seen in Hong Kong island rather than Kowloon and New Territories). This is why it's more important now than ever to ride the Red Minibuses; to keep independent businesses alive and show that they're very much in use and serve a huge sector of Hong Kong society.”

Though previously only serving the rural New Territories, during the riots, these minibuses started picking up new passengers and entering new territory, thereby “helping the public get to their homes and other destinations while public transports were on boycott,” says Arthur. 

They operated illegally, without passenger serving licenses, though the government turned a blind eye. After the riots, in 1969, the government legalised these means of transport, seeing the value in them. Ever since, explains Arthur, these red minibuses have “serviced a sector of society that favors it as a fast and speedy alternative to double decker buses, cabs and the metro.” The Red Minibuses have always had a fraught relationship with the Hong Kong government, though. 


The features that make these buses so eccentric is what has made them so beloved in Hong Kong. They account for over 1.7 million rides a day in 2019, according to the South China Morning Post and provide an effective and affordable transport option for many commuters and working class people. You simply hail a Red Minibus from the street curb, just like a taxi. Once you enter, you pay a fee to the driver, usually around HK$20 in cash or change. When you want to get off, passengers will call out to the driver, with him raising his hand to indicate he has heard you. Essentially, you can stop almost anywhere along the route.

Prices can change depending on weather conditions (like typhoons) and based on demand -- like late at night when there are no other public transport options. With the Red Minibuses being privately-owned, there is more control in the hands of the driver who either owns or rents the minivan. Sometimes routes are left unfinished if there are only a few passengers left and routes may change to work around traffic.

Today, there are approximately 1,000 of these Red Minibuses in existence. Working round the clock to get as many passengers and trips in as possible, they are fast, flexible and accessible and bring so much character to the city’s streets. They reflect the Hong Kong spirit and fast-paced mode of life, which is just one of the reasons why Arthur cherishes them so much.


10 reasons why Red Minibuses are better than your average public transport

1. You can get on wherever the fuck you want

2. You can get off whereever the fuck you want

3. You get to Yuen Long from Mong Kok in 20 minutes

5. You don't need to wear a seatbelt like a green bus baby

6. Drivers are the real selectors expect classic canto ballets to hardcore rave tracks on repeat - Beyond to MP4, keep your Shazam on...

7. If you know the driver, you can reserve seats

8. Unfortunately, the MTR expansion is killing red minibuses, but since drivers are self-employed & rent their own Vans (as opposed to green buses' franchise business) they choose their own hours (and speed :P) so they can do more rounds and make more $$$... which means, pedal to the floor, we get home quicker ;)

9. Red Minibuses "typhoon rates" during the monsoon season are still cheaper than cabs

10. Bossman driver decides on his own routes, so fuck a bus schedule sonnnnn

To celebrate the Red Minibuses, Yeti Out threw a party on the theme of the Red Minibuses. “We threw a party celebrating the Red Minibus as a traditional mode of transport that's often overlooked by innovation and the fast, developing city that is Hong Kong. This became the core theme of the party, and our friend and graffiti writer XEME did a custom piece painting a toy bus” in addition to t-shirts, keychains and more. The collective also collaborated with the city’s standing minibus sign painter, Mak Kam-san on the artwork for the party.