Maria Pappa was born and raised in Athens, Greece. She is an editor, producing articles about music and popular culture most notably for the Greek online magazine and free press LIFO. She is the resident host of a weekly show called Global Ghetto on Movement Radio, an Athenian based online radio station.

Maria Pappa

“Greece has made a lot of progress,” says Alexandros, 32, a journalist living as an openly gay man in Athens and a member of the LGBTQ+ community. “In 2015, civil unions were legalized for same-sex couples and in 2017 transgender people were granted the right to have their gender identity recognized and change their legal sex without having to undergo surgical alteration. Our main claims at the moment are the legalization of same-sex marriages and joint adoption. Recently, a draft bill was submitted to the Greek Parliament by Syriza, the official opposition party, concerning these matters and we are waiting to see if the government follows through.”

During the 21st century, queer culture has become a political force that stands against patriarchal notions and conservatism in Greek society. Alexandros is optimistic about the future but he seems skeptical when the conversation shifts to safety and how open Greek society is to diversity, urging queer people to be wary of the areas they visit.

 "Queer people are behind the most interesting events happening in the city, young persons with extremely original and creative ideas. Every season, each week is filled with special events, parties, balls, performances, theatre plays, etc. Boredom is not an option.”

“As in most parts of the western world queer people can be victims of bullying, homophobic slurs, even violence if they show any signs of affection. The centre is usually a safe space but many other districts outside downtown Athens are not, as well as many places in the suburbs and the wider region. In this case, I would suggest for gay couples who are thinking of coming to Greece to check beforehand all the places that are not considered tourist areas. It is important to stress here that hate speech and violence against LGBTQ+ individuals or groups are under the Law Against Racism and Xenophobia in Greece so if something bad happens, they should by any means report it to the police. Greek society may be sympathetic towards sexual orientations but it falls behind in the matter of gender expression. We are not Berlin or London. If a person is dressed with clothes that are not stereotypical to their gender then it’s more likely to attract unwanted glances or even to get ridiculed on the street.”

“Apart from that, the queer scene is thriving. Queer people are behind the most interesting events happening in the city, young persons with extremely original and creative ideas. Every season, each week is filled with special events, parties, balls, performances, theatre plays, etc. Boredom is not an option.”

Greece

Athens

The Queer Scene in Athens 

For travellers who are visiting the capital of Greece for the first time, the historical centre or historic triangle (as it’s often referred to by locals) is the main attraction. It’s formed by three main squares: Syntagma, Omonia and Monastiraki.

In this triangle, every road is connected and leads to another part of the city. Here, you’ll discover the oldest – and most scenic – neighbourhoods like Plaka, Anafiotika, Thissio and Psirri. Another must-visit is Filopappou Hill.

There’s plenty of shops and restaurants to explore, like Dosirak, the oldest Korean restaurant in Athens, and loads more street food stands packed into the tiny streets. As for drinking, check out Clumsies, the queer-friendly Hollywood Bar or natural wine bar Heteroclito. If you want somewhere more classic, try Booze Cooperativa on Kolokotroni Street where the eccentric owner will join you for a game of chess over a beer. The iconic Galaxy Bar is another institution, having served drinks to the intellectual crowd for over 50 years.

Varvakeios Agora, the city's central meat and fish market dating back to the 19th Century, can also be found in the area. Go for lunch or early dinner at Oinomageireio Epirus, the last original tripe soup shop inside the market (they don't serve only tripe soup). It’s not exactly certain where patsas (the Greek name for tripe soup) came from. Some food historians trace it back to ancient Persia and others to South Greece and Macedonia. One thing is for sure, it was the Asia Minor refugees that popularised the dish when they relocated to Greece in the 1920s. Patsas is arguably the best cure after a night of heavy drinking.

The lively Monastiraki operates as a flea market, known for its antique shops selling everything from furniture to old video games. If you’re feeling romantic, visit Lycabettus under a full moon summer night or maybe even the Acropolis. On the border of Omonoia and Psirri stands the former print factory of the infamous Romantso Magazine, which now functions as a creative hub, with a rich cultural programme showcasing local and international talent. Another important cultural hotspot is #six d.o.g.s near Monastiraki station with its much-loved garden. On the border of Psirri and Thission, hidden among abandoned buildings, is one of the best bars in town, Cantina Social.

During the last two decades Koukaki has grown to become one of the hippest areas. But before it became chic and expensive, it was overpopulated. Before the arrival of the Athens metro and the opening of the Acropolis Museum 12 years ago, it was pretty easy to rent a house there. Due to its close proximity to the Historical Centre it gained popularity as the first Airbnb hotspot of Athens. An important addition to the area was EMST (National Museum of Contemporary Art) which was housed in the former Fix brewery. Glimpses of the past can be found at Koukles Club, which still hosts the oldest drag show in Athens, and Takis, a legendary bakery straight out of the 60s who claim to have introduced Kolouri – the sesame ring snack – to the city. Koukaki is full of concept stores and modern cafes like the popular Bel-Ray, or brunch spot Monsieur Barbu. After a week of Greek food, you might want to try Tuk Tuk, the best Thai restaurant in town. Generally avoid eating lunch or dinner near the Acropolis Museum, the quality may be good but the prices are over-the-top. For tsipouro and meze, try To Potami and To Pagkaki, two co-operative kafeneia on the outskirts of Koukaki.

The multicultural Kypseli – beehive in English – was once home to upper and middle-class elites. During the 1970s, its rich inhabitants moved away from the centre to the northern suburbs, and the neighbourhood gradually fell into decline, dubbed a dangerous place to live by the late 90s, early '00s. Soon, a new Kypseli was born, with cheap housing attracting immigrants from Ethiopia, Nigeria, Albania and the former Soviet Union. The rapid gentrification also brought a new breed of residents, mostly students looking for more affordable apartments.

Its former glory is evident in its unconventional architecture ranging from Neoclassic to Art Deco, Bauhaus to Modernist. Don’t miss the historic Au-revoir Bar at Patission Street, owned by the same family for over 60 years, and of course Kypseli's Municipal Market, which houses a record shop and second hand store as well as weekly markets. A couple of new-wave coffee shops have recently opened up too, like Kick and Williwaw.

Hidden behind Rebound – the legendary goth club lost to the pandemic – stands family-run Kurdish eatery Mikra Asia, where you’ll eat the best kebab in Athens. The African diaspora have also played a big part in creating the culture of Kypseli. Go to Lalibela for traditional Ethiopian food, before heading for drinks at Axum, a post-midnight club playing hip hop, afrobeats and reggae. On another note: don’t be alarmed by strange bars with closed unwelcoming doors and bright front lights, they’re mostly gambling clubs (probably illegal).

Traditionally known as the alternative hood of Athens, Exarcheia is considered an anarchist quarter, a place where far-left and anti-fascist groups gather. Its long, radical history starts from the student uprising of the Athens Polytechnics School that overthrew the junta regime in 1973. Much later in 2008, the murder of a 15-year-old Alexis Grigoropoulos at the hands of police prompted wild riots and violent street fights with the authorities. The burning of dumpsters and the smell of tear gas near tourist spots filled became a sort of “exotic” sightseeing. Slowly and silently, Airbnb began to change the demographic of Exarcheia. Τhe crowds of foreign travellers strolling down Kallidromiou Market is a sight to behold; many abandoned stores have now reopened in order to house a variety of hipster shops. For decades, it was a rare phenomenon for expensive cars to enter the area and leave unscathed; now you’ll see the latest model of Mercedes or BMW parked outside anarchist bars or on dark streets, like in any other area of Athens. Honestly, it feels quite bizarre. Many of the squats that housed refugees closed down, becoming defunct. The recent construction of the Metro’s Line 4 in the infamous central square – which for years was plagued by drug dealers and organised gangs – has raised more fears around the complete destruction of the bohemian and radical nature of the district. Despite frequent clashes between locals and authorities, Exarcheia remains a youthful, vibrant district that is worth a visit.

One of the most important museums in the world, the National Archaeological Museum is located there with more than 11,000 exhibits from a variety of ancient locations around Greece. For vinyl collectors, Exarcheia is the place to be, with numerous record shops spread around the neighbourhood. Exarcheia is also the capital of graffiti with the majority of its walls painted or tagged.

Every Saturday, Athenians from all over the city head to Kallidromiou Street for the best fruit and veg market (laiki), on the same street you’ll find a row of cafés for a morning cappuccino or late-night drink – Viola, Bourbon and Paraskinio are great options – as well as neo-tavern Ama Lachei. After lunch, head to Strefi Hill, the smaller, unruly cousin of Lycabettus. Exarcheia is packed with restaurants, bars and cafes, but some of my favourites include Kafeino Mouria which dates back to 1915, Selas, an anarchist cafe hidden among the trees, Santarosa (the gem of Asklipiou Street) for cocktails and eclectic DJ sets, after-hours rembetika joint Angelos, and the tiny Bar 37. Two of the most beautiful open air cinemas are situated near Exarcheia Square too: Vox (BOΞ) and Riviera. If someone mentions the word Neapoli, it still means Exarcheia but it’s used to describe the upper side of the district at the outer limits of Lycabettus hill.

Located northwest of the Acropolis, this triptych of neighbourhoods has huge historical value. It’s difficult to distinguish where one hood ends and where the other begins. At the end of Ermou Street, you’ll come across the ruins of the ancient necropolis, on the other end, stands the industrial complex of Technopolis in Gazi. Technopolis (the former gasworks) dates back to the 19th century, and once attracted many Muslim families who were looking for jobs and a place to settle down in the 60s. On the west side of Kerameikos, Metaxourgeio (meaning silk mill) was a working-class stronghold of craftsmen, tradesmen, and small-business owners. After the 70s, the area started to decline. There were renovation attempts, especially in Gazi, during the 2004 Olympic Games which led to the relocation of most Muslim and Roma populations. Gentrification came in the form of art studios and galleries that hit Kerameikos and Metaxourgeio around the same time, but without any success. Many buildings now operate as brothels and the area has become home to people struggling with heroin addiction; the situation is ugly, watch your step.

On another note, Gazi, Kerameikos and Metaxourgeio are considered a haven for foodies looking for Michelin star dining and modern tavernas. Athens' Chinatown is also situated here with numerous Asian markets and clothing outlets. Kerameikos is also home to contemporary art powerhouse The Breeder. When the weather gets warmer, Technopolis hosts open air concerts from jazz to hip hop, and music festivals such as Plissken Festival. Iera Odos is a popular street that includes the biggest live stages for Greek music and mainstream nightclubs. Abandoned warehouses in the area are often used for underground raves, and all the best LGBTQ+ clubs and bars can be found there like Shamone, Sodade, BEqueer, Beaver, and Communitism. Over the past 20 years, Bios at Peiraios 84 has built its reputation as the most innovative cultural space of Athens with the best roof view of the Parthenon. A couple of streets behind is Latraac, a skatebowl-cum-café/bar that pulls an international crowd, with up-and-coming DJs, producers and musicians from all around the world behind the decks.

A Guide to Athens' Best Neighbourhoods

Hellenic police are a mixed bag. Despite recent efforts of modernisation, it’s still an institution full of neverending controversies. There is always the danger of arbitrary behaviour, but this is a nationwide issue. For a number of reasons, it can be very unnerving when police are involved in any way.

In Athens policing may be considered undue in certain areas like Exarcheia, where there are recorded incidents of unexpected searches in the middle of the street and many officers can be aggressive if provoked. Things can get more complicated in the case of middle eastern males but you don’t usually hear about it in the news.

Tourists and visitors tend to be excluded from these kinds of situations. Still, you might witness police brutality if you happen to stumble upon a big demonstration. In the past, protests could easily turn violent but this is becoming more of a rare phenomenon as time goes by.

Police in Athens: What's the Stance?

Athens is relatively safe, but as in any other European city, watch your bags in busy areas and act with caution when moving around some hoods after dark. In the past, women were harassed in the streets, but that doesn’t happen very often nowadays. The recent wave of femicides have made people more sensitive to violence against women.

You might say that depending on the kindness of strangers somehow holds true in Athens. Athenians never turn a blind eye when someone is in need. In an alternative reality, where GPS and Google Maps are nonexistent and you desperately need to ask for directions, even if their English is not good most locals would try to guide you in the best way possible. If you cry for help, someone will almost always hear – and help – you. Dial 100 for the police, and 166 for a medical emergency.

On another note, be polite to street vendors, even if they are insisting. While you’re not obliged to give money to the large population of homeless people in Athens, consider asking them if they’d like something to eat instead.

Athens: The Safety Guide

Athenians can be overly enthusiastic and curious when they meet a person for the first time but they don’t tend to hold long conversations especially if you are from another country. It’s partly a language thing so don’t get discouraged if you travel alone and try to talk to a Greek person. To get more in-touch with the local scene it always helps if you have an acquaintance or friend that lives in the city. It’s easier to meet people this way, who can show you around the best areas and invite you to parties. If this is not the case you shouldn’t worry, Athens is full of visitors from all around the world which makes it difficult to feel alone.

Intersectional Solo Travel in Athens

Let’s be clear, tourism is vital for the economic growth of the country. Thus, it’s no wonder that boutique hotels are popping up on every corner of downtown Athens. Nightly hotel rates start at around €70; a more affordable choice is Airbnb with apartments starting at €50 per night. If you come across something cheaper, always read the reviews before you book – maybe the place isn’t so central after all.

If you are staying longer than a week, let’s say a month, search for an apartment outside the usual platforms with the help of an Athens-based friend. Rent ranges from €300 to €1000 per month, depending on all the usual things like size and area, but not so much on the condition of the apartment. It’s worth knowing that a room “with a view of the Acropolis” does not necessarily mean a decent street. Omonoia, Metaxourgeio, Lower Patissia and the area near Larissa station are central districts, but it’s not advisable to stay there at night as a visitor.

Airbnb is seen as a curse by many, but when it first appeared in Athens it gave a much-needed solution to many low and middle-income Athenian families that were struggling in the midst of the debt crisis. Lately it’s hard to distinguish which ones are owned by private companies. It’s true that many neighbourhoods were deeply affected by Airbnb – you can read more on that in the hoods section. The disdain of some locals is not usually shown in everyday behaviour or conversations but in the form of anti-Airbnb graffiti on the streets of those particular places.

Where to Find Good Accommodation in Athens

Greece has become synonymous with hospitality. Greek people are warm, welcoming and friendly, in some cities more than others. Thessaloniki and some parts of Northern Greece are extremely hospitable, even by Greek standards. For example, when visiting a friend from those parts, they tend to treat you every time you go out, which can be a bit suffocating after a while. Family is very important here and we tend to form strong relationships and friendships. Religion is also huge.

We smile a lot and we swear a lot, especially when driving. Greeks are very passionate when talking about politics, football or music, things can get very loud but that doesn't mean they’re arguing or fighting. Don’t be startled if you hear the word malakas (it literally means wanker in English), it’s mostly used as an expression of wonder rather than a slur, except if the body language or the face of the person says otherwise. The moutza gesture (when you forcefully raise the palm of your hand to the direction of a person) is a tricky one; in most cases it’s considered insulting and you can get fined if the police catch you doing it while driving. If invited to a party or a friendly gathering it’s customary to bring a gift like drinks, sweets or flowers depending on the occasion. It is not uncommon for older Greek people to ask you a lot of – sometimes intrusive – questions about your personal life, don’t take it the wrong way. We are also very tactile; good friends kiss each other on the cheeks, but if you don’t feel like kissing anybody, just shake hands. A light pat on the shoulder or arm is a friendly gesture that shows fondness.

Now for some other things to note. Most people are named after a Greek orthodox saint but that doesn’t apply so much to younger generations. We usually celebrate name days the same way as birthdays, minus the cake. Regarding tipping, waiters in Greece don't expect to receive a percentage of the bill, people tend to leave a pourboire (an amount that often rounds up the bill) on the table or added to the card payment. If going by percentage, 5% for a large bill is appropriate, and for smaller bills, 50 cents or €1 will do the trick. As for the many signs you’ll come across warning against flushing paper down the toilet, the sewage system is a complicated issue and it’s advisable to kick the habit when in Greece.

Athens: The Cultural Codes and Etiquette You Need to Know

The Athens centre is relatively small and walkable, all you need is three to four hours and comfortable shoes. If you want to fully explore the long (and spectacular) coastline of the city, you’ll need a car. The same goes for Piraeus. You can easily get to the port by local transport but you would only get a glimpse of a much larger urban zone.

In Athens, transport can be hectic during rush hours. The good news is that there is one ticket for the metro, bus, tram, trolley and railway and it’s very affordable. You can use any of them over a period of 90 minutes for just €1.20, but you can only pick up the ticket at the metro, tram and railway stations. There are other options: a daily ticket for €4.10 and a five day ticket that costs €8.20. There is also a 3 day tourist ticket that includes the trip from and to the Athens International Airport for €20. The cheapest way to get to the airport is by bus for €6, and the quickest route is by Metro but it’s almost double the price at €9. There is also a two-way ticket at €16 valid for 30 days.

As for Taxis, use apps like Taxi Beat or Uber to avoid getting overcharged. If you would rather not use these apps, politely ask the driver to start the metre when you get into the car; the standard fee for a short ride within the centre is around €4. Taxis charge a fixed fare for journeys between the centre and the airport: €38 during the day and €54 after midnight, and you’re not obliged to pay anything extra for your luggage.

What's the Deal on Transportation in Athens?

Culinary pluralism is the best word to describe how the Athens food scene has developed over the decades. For many years, Athens wasn’t really invested in international or fusion cuisine but rather in flavours and recipes that came from different parts of the region.

Greek dishes can be split into two categories, those served at an oimomageirion and those you’ll find at a grill restaurant. In a grill restaurant meat is the main attraction: kebabs, spare ribs, meatballs, keftedes, steaks, etc. In an oinomageirion (translated as wine kitchen), you can order a variety of stews and soups, gemista (stuffed tomatoes and peppers), moussaka and ladera (vegetables cooked in rich olive oil).

A step up from these restaurants is the Greek tavern or neo-taverns. If you want to experience an authentic Athenian tavern, go to Klimataria which opened its doors in 1927. Another option is of course the fish taverns, mostly called ouzeri – named after the Greek spirit ouzo because we traditionally drink it with fish. If you’re after light bites and drinks, find your local mezedopolia or tsipouradika (again the name is from a spirit, tsipouro), the Greek version of a tapas bar.

This section would not have been complete without an honorary mention to the ultimate Athenian street food, souvlaki – there is even a 

. It’s everywhere in Athens but if you want to taste something truly original then go to Lefteris O Politis in Omonoia. For over 70 years they have served the same type of souvlaki; it’s simple, juicy and spicy. One is never enough.

One last thing, Greek people are obsessed with coffee – iced coffee in particular – and they drink it all day and well into the night. They’ve even created their own variations on classics, like freddo espresso (iced espresso blended in a frappe coffee frother) and freddo cappuccino (iced espresso with foam milk on top). Invented in the 90s, you can find them pretty much anywhere and most places will deliver straight to your door, a trend that started in the pandemic. Aside from the freddo there is the famous frappé, a cold, instant coffee that originated in Thessaloniki. Let’s note here that there are three ways to order your coffee: sketos (without sugar), metrios (slightly sweet) and glykos (very sweet), milk is always optional. Traditional kafeneia are the perfect places to drink greek coffee, a hot, strong brew similar to Turkish coffee. And yes, it’s ok to drink tap water.

Where to Eat and Drink in Athens

Drugs are illegal in Greece (apart from medical cannabis), they are also considered a taboo and aren’t openly discussed. When Greeks do talk about drugs, it’s mostly in a discreet manner or in code, especially if someone in the group doesn’t do them, which is common even between close friends. So generally speaking, you should be careful who you talk to. That doesn’t mean that it’s difficult to find them, quite the contrary, you can find almost everything but it’s always better to seek the advice of a local friend on where to purchase. Random street dealers may be an easy solution but no one can guarantee the quality of the product and there is a high risk of getting arrested. On the other hand, tourists aren’t usually subjected to searches by the police and it all depends on the amount of drugs you are carrying and if they are for personal use. Covid-19 fuelled a major increase in substance abuse worldwide and Greece is no exception. Different groups are doing different kinds of drugs. The youth prefer weed. MDMA and ketamine are more popular in the club scene. Raves are full with hallucinogens while the gay community has a thing for crystal meth at sex parties. The only drug that everyone seems to agree on is cocaine.

The Lowdown on Drugs in Athens 

Born out of myth, Athens has always struggled with her heavy past. As the legend says, a competition among gods gave Athens its name.

Athena, the goddess of wisdom and war won against Poseidon, and Athens was born. In Greek, the word Athens (Athina) has a gender and it’s female. It used to be plural – Athinai – during the Homer times but this was changed later on. One of the oldest cities in the world, she has over 3,400 years of recorded history. So yes, you could say she's ancient. The birthplace of democracy, she is also considered the cradle of western civilisation.

That does not mean that young Athenians walk around reciting Plato or listening to bouzoukia (Greek folk music) all the time. Nowadays the Athenian youth prefer to play loud trap music from cars. Yep, trap is a big thing here, comparable in size to the local heavy metal and punk scene of the 80s and 90s, but you won’t hear it on the radio because of its explicit lyrics. Dance culture never seems to fall out of fashion in Athens, since its appearance in the 90s it has been considered the most popular music scene. Currently, spontaneous raves are having a moment but you’ll only find out about them if you’re following the right people on instagram.

Historically, Athens has lived many lives that have shaped its modern cultural landscape. Here’s some key moments you should know. The classical period marked the age of arts, politics and philosophy; the most famous Greeks lived during this time including philosophers Aristotle, Plato and Socrates as well as all the great tragedians, Euripides, Sophocles and Aeschylus. The decline of classical Athens was followed by the Byzantine era, check out the small churches dotted around the city which date all the way back to this period; the majority of which were built above the ruins of pagan temples. In 1458 Athens fell under the rule of the Ottoman Empire and Greeks were enslaved for over 400 years up until the war of independence in 1822. Shortly after, Athens became the capital of Greece in 1834.

A century later, in 1922, came another big moment. The first big wave of (Greek) refugees flooded the city after the Asia Minor catastrophe (the defeat of the Greek army in the Greek-Turkish war), bringing their customs and culture with them, such as rembetiko music. Fast forward to the 21st century when Athens ushered in the 2004 Summer Olympics, which took place in the same location the very idea was formed more than a 100 years before. Although the games were successful, showing a city in progress, many would argue that it was disastrous for the Greek economy.

Though the city has been through a lot – just look at the recent debt crisis which prompted a long, harsh period of austerity – Athenian locals continue to push culture forward in new and exciting ways, capturing the attention of creatives all over the world who are flocking to the capital.