South Korea

Seoul

Paola Laf

"People who say that New York never sleeps have clearly not been to 

."

Paola Laf moved to South Korea's capital in 2021, drawn to it's fast-paced energy and booming pop culture. A DJ and radio host drawn to both niche and mainstream areas of culture, she was drawn to the city's unique mixture of underground experimental sounds and polished 

 industry. "I was eager to immerse myself in it," she says. "It feels like the future is unfolding here."

She's made a home for herself in Seoul, now working with an independent label 

. She knows how to thrive in the city's relentless energy, yet also afford herself moments of quiet respite. "The city offers pockets of calm, with nature always within reach that's hard to find elsewhere, and even harder to give up once you've experienced it.," she says. 

Read on for her guide on her adopted home city. 

If K-pop is what led you to Seoul, this is the real deal for music nerds. Established in 1979, this record shop boasts an impressive collection of K-pop albums, including vinyl, spanning decades.

A Seoul nightlife institution probably on everyone's list already but I had to include it anyway. It’s the best club in town - so many legendary DJs, both local and foreign, have played and keep playing here. It's the kind of place where you know the music is going to be good no matter who's on the line-up. 

One of Seoul’s best music venues, hands down. If you’re curious about the local scene, this is where you should go. They regularly host live concerts, but even when it’s just open as a bar the staff plays the best music in the background. I have discovered so much new music there. 

Again, one of Seoul’s best music venues. DIY, experimental, punk-spirited DJ sets and live concerts, where you’ll hear the wildest and most free-spirited mix of genres. Plus, a lovely community of people around it. Shout out to them. 

In all honesty, part of me wanted to gate keep this place, but on the other hand, I wanted to give it a shout-out. It’s a tiny, cosy whiskey bar with a perfect music selection, and I have some cherished memories attached to it.

Quest is the bar of Visla.FM, the radio station where I host my show. A cozy nook in the midst of the craziness of Itaewon where I often found myself shazamming what's playing in the background.

I’m a sucker for panoramic views and stunning sunsets. Comfort has a rooftop that, from afar, looks like a cliff. I often go there to watch the sunset.

A cozy café along the Inwang Mountain Trail that even won an award for Best Public Building and also offers a beautiful view of the city. With no bus stop nearby, you’ll need to walk along the trail for a bit to reach it (unless you take a taxi), but that makes it even better, in my opinion.

My Korean isn’t good enough to read entire books yet, so this is my go-to spot. This bookstore sells second-hand books in English and a few other languages. It has classics, books by Korean authors, and an interesting selection of books on Korea too. Avoid the big chains and support your local store! 

Café Gaeppul is a café, bar, and gallery nestled in the Ihwa Mural Village on the slope of Naksan. While most cafés in Seoul don't sell beer, this one does, on a terrace over a stunning panoramic view stretching across the city, from a new angle.

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Cosy Whiskey Bars to Kpop Havens: Paola Laf’s Guide to Seoul

Mount XLR

. Low entrance fees and stellar clubs in close proximity mean that you can hop across spots and check out a host of world-class DJ talent - and the energy of crowds are just on another level. 

But it's not just the atmosphere of the clubs  - it's the way the city caters to and enables its nightlife. Seoul is safe to walk around and abundant in 24/7 restaurants that make for perfect post-club meals. 

Mount XLR is a electronic artist and producer who draws from the high-energy, percussive-heavy sounds embedded in Seoul's underground, and meshing it together with touches of UK-influenced post-dubstep and garage. He lives, works and breathes the nocturnal city, with new EP 

 on SoundSupply_Service, the indie experimental electronic label fuelling the originality and dynamism of the Seoul club scene. 

In this guide, he shares his top spots to party, chill, walk and even get the perfect post-club bone marrow soup. 

This is one of the classic places to go after clubbing in Itaewon. They’re famous for their Korean hangover soup (뼈해장국), but I always choose the spicy braised pork (뼈찜). Open 24 hours, which is a charm. Always a lovely vibe around.

Seoul’s finest club. Somewhere all my youth is at. No description needed.

If someone asks where the most unique experience is to feel the subculture, I would definitely recommend Seendosi. The place has a bar on the 5th floor and a venue on the 4th. Both are highly unique and feel very local. If you are a subculture fan and coming to Seoul for the first time, definitely give it a try.

Another subculture realm in Seoul. It’s located in a very old neighbourhood (Eulji-ro), where you’ll witness all the raw goodness of the place.

My favourite walking place. I remember that I used to walk down the road around 2 a.m., after watching a late-night movie at a nearby cinema. The boulevard mainly consists of a lot of big companies. But late at night, everything is just dark with tall buildings. Maybe it is a bit away from the “nightlife” people usually expect, but I strongly recommend exploring the empty city vibe in Seoul.

Open 24 hours, serving solid Korean army soup. After a long night out, this place will treat you well. There’s also a branch near Gangnam Station.

Han River is the heart of Seoul. One of the best things about the city is being able to walk safely anywhere, anytime. If you’re tired of high-energy nightlife, head here with friends and order fried chicken via delivery app—you can even pick it up from the roadside.

One of my favourite soup spots. In Korean cuisine, soups are everything—food that belongs to everyone, food you can share drinks with, food that feeds your soul. This place is a great introduction to that vibe.

‘Sundae’ (순대) is Korean blood pudding (though very different from the Western kind). Sundae soup is another hearty classic. I often come here late at night after finishing sessions with friends—it’s near my studio, in a quiet, local neighbourhood. If you’re looking for a hidden gem in Seoul, this might be it.

A small bar near Hanguk Sundae. Slightly different block, but surrounded by restaurants and bars that stay open late. Friendly staff, great dishes, and a strong whisky selection (especially single malts) at affordable prices. Definitely recommend.

ACS,kr

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