India

Mumbai

Bakery

Food

Dishoom is a mini-chain that certainly has a grip on 

Mention Dishoom to any Londoner and it'll get a nod of approval. A reliable choice always, the Indian chain is known for its excellent flavours and stunning interiors. Spread across several locations in the capital city – from Shoreditch to Canary Wharf – and cities such as Edinburgh and Birmingham, Dishoom was founded by cousins Shamil and Kavi Thakrar, as well as Amar and Adarsh Radia.

First launched in 2010, Dishoom pays homage to the Irani cafes of 1960s Bombay, which were opened by Zoroastrian immigrants from Iran. The older spaces have nearly all disappeared, but while they existed they were meeting spaces for people from all walks of life to come together for a cup of chai and food.

This particular era is what Dishoom was founded on, and so for this guide co-founders Kavi and Shamil explore the roots behind their chain, highlighting the Irani cafes that are a must-visit in Bombay.

Even though our beloved Mr Kohinoor is not around anymore, Britannia & Co. is still everyone's favourite place for a spot of lunch, and – in my opinion – one of the loveliest surviving Irani cafes. What to order? Well, it must include a fragrant chicken berry pulao, and the excellent Parsi speciality salli boti (lamb curry topped with salli crisp chips). Finish with a refreshing lime soda; "nice and sweet, to beat the heat", as Mr Kohinoor liked to say.

This is most certainly our favourite place for breakfast in Bombay. If you're early, it will be calm and quiet and you can enjoy a sweet chai in peace, followed by a breakfast of their delicious akuri – a simple dish, not unlike scrambled eggs.

Next, onwards to Yazdani for a mid-morning snack. Despite the heat, you must order a piping hot cup of chai, and brun maska to dunk into it. (You could also order the softer bun, but at Yazdani, its crusty counterpart brun is the true champion).

My cousin (and Dishoom co-founder) Shamil actually celebrated his first birthday here! This little cafe is on a corner of King's Circle on the way to South Bombay. The "honey half-fry" is a must-try: eggs only slightly fried on top of bread, and drizzled with honey.

This is such a great place for people watching, as it's a bustling hub for commuters. It dates back to 1914 and is still open. Swing by for a delicious omelette, or bun maska with jam.

We often spend an evening at Leo's, eating plates of chilli cheese toast and drinking plenty of ice-cold Kingfishers.

B. Merwan

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