United States

Chicago

Kevin Coval

 - neighbourhoods divided by green spaces, the skyscraper-packed downtown that hugs a 22,300 mi² lake, with walkways alongside rivers - yet by far its winning feature is its people. Chicago is Illinois' biggest city, but its not the capital - this is because of it's relatively new growth, with the city absorbing different immigrant and ethnic groups to create a unique character. 

"My favourite spaces are where you'll see the city reflected in the audience, or who is at the bar. I think the country is at its best is when we are in radically mixed spaces," says Kevin Coval, an writer, poet and filmmaker. "I'm a hip-hop kid, I believe that the mix is the illest, right? That's what made the culture so fresh. You create a collage of culture - a new pastiche - that becomes something that you've never seen before."

While Chicago is hyper-segregated, it is culture that creates spaces of overlap and expression. "There’s this constant ingenuity of people, place makers, culture makers, creatives doing what city planners don’t often think of: ensuring that people come together in small ways on a regular basis," says Coval. "That is where the excitement of the city is, where the best stuff happens, in spaces that are mixed geographically, socioeconomically, and ethnically."

Below, he shares his favourite spots to go in the city. 

Silver Room is one of my favourite places in the city. It’s become a  cultural institution that’s been an anchor to the revitalisation of the business district on 53rd Street in Hyde Park. The Silver Room started as a jewellery/culture space and it’s become a place where the community comes together for open mics, for storytelling events. An important place. 

A Korean fusion restaurant run by my buddy chef Won Kim who is also a graffiti writer and DJ. The most exciting cultural spaces in Chicago now is in food pop-ups run by young entrepreneurial first-second generation immigrants, fusing their country's palette into Chicago fare. Most of these younger chefs happen to be pan-Asian - Won at Kimski is the uncle of this new moment. He is one the finest chefs this city has. 

Allan - the gallerist - is really trying to work with emerging artists to further professionalise their craft and business acumen. I admire that as I think Chicago artists get overlooked, even though  they make some of the illest work on the planet. Allan is generous with his space, there is a lot that goes on outside of gallery shows - dinners, readings, gatherings. Just a cool, elevated cultural space. 

They have acted - like many street wear shops in Chicago - as a community centre that's helped to foster the local music community. They’ve probably been around going on 20 years as a streetwear brand. The sort of golden moments in Chicago hip hop music most recently was early 2010s - the sound known as drill was beginning to bubble. A lot of the crossover - listening sessions and gear - came from spaces like Jugrnaut. It continues to support the local music scene: hosting listening parties and open mics.

They have affordable vinyl both new and used - difficult to find stuff. They run a DJ program in that space and give opportunities to emerging DJs including having DJ classes. 

Hungry Brain is oftentimes a jazz bar. You will see folks like artists who are on Chicago's International Anthem label - they do a for real job of highlighting new music that is fresh. The jazz scene in Chicago is slept on in a way, Chicago has this tradition of free, experimental jazz. 

Run by folks from the neighbourhood who are trying to create a third space for everybody. Cafes in Chicago are having a renaissance as third spaces, there is a generation of young entrepreneurs excited about creating spaces for people to gather outside of work and the home, which is essential to cultural fabric of the city. They make incredible lattes while making sure that you feel welcome.

It is an active factory that has embraced the culture of graffiti art. The folklore is that the owner's son was graffiti writer, he got tired of him and knucklehead friends calling from jail so turned over their walls to graffiti writers in a decriminalised way. You can go practice as a novice and see uninterrupted masterpieces on the outside walls. In my opinion, it is one of the best public art space in the city, if not the country.

Crawford Steel Company

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