France

Marseille

It's easy to understand the charm and pull of France's oldest city.

Historically, Marseille has served as a crossroads for immigration and trade in the region. Now, it's a cultural hotspot that Parisians flock to during the summer to escape the dense heat of the capital. It's increasingly becoming the go-to city for Londoners too, especially for those looking to experience French cuisine and natural beauty in the southern region, away from the bustle of Paris.

It's certainly now the place that Chef Megan calls her home. After living in London for five years, she made the move to Marseille. "The city reveals more the longer you give it love," she says. "The people here love a chat and are unapologetic, even in down seasons the city has so much to offer. With the beach always a walk away, if you want a class of wine or a cup of mint tea Marseille will always give."

Explore what Marseille has to offer via Chef Megan's travel guide. Below, she hones in on the best places to catch a bite, and what you should order.

Chez Gilda is a laid-back fry-up spot for dinner. Come here for roadside prawns in pastis, octopus and mangetout, the Mediterranean whitebait. They also do a good panisse (chickpea flour fries) – just make sure you take loads of harissa and cumin on the side as you gotta self season. Once you're done here, go to Pasarelle over the road for a bottle of affordable natural wines. The owner is iconically the double of David Bowie.

I live off Pizza Enervée at least three times a week. Pizza by the slice for €2.50 and the slice is a quarter of the pizza. Hungover, drunk or just hungry – it's there for all your moods. Their white bases are a winning underdog. Speed is not on their side though, so if it's a big queue have patience.

This sweet Afghan spot between Les Réformés and Longchamps is run by a mother and son. Marion does the lunchtime cooking, while Romain gives his mum the night off and does the evening service himself. It's a simple question of "beer or wine" and "meat or no meat," but what you get is a delicious and substantial plate of home cooking. If you're hungry there's always more, it's real hospitality.

My favourite patisserie orientale in Marseille. A traditional Tunisian Jewish bakery, David always has a really warm smile and knows what I'm after before I walk in the door. The potato and caper brick with the slice of lemon is the one.  Pick up a fricassé and sweet treats while you're there for the perfect spread on weekdays. Make sure you get fricassé sandwich (not to be confused with the one pot chicken dish). You'll find them in most corner patisseries in Noailles, served with a sweet mint tea or just to take away. Made by overfilling an oval-shaped doughnut dough with confit tuna, boiled egg, potato and olives. Always say yes to the spicy harissa, they will ask spicy or not spicy. Take the spicy option.

Little Italian; beautiful cooking and really good people, probably my favourite restaurant in Marseille. Don't miss out on the tripe if it's on the menu.

A classic seaside fish restaurant but it's as fresh as it gets. Go for lunch, you can pick a whole fish from the counter or take a pizza away and go have a wander round Les Goudes. There's a sweet little port, Croix de Cap Croisette, that's good for swimming if you follow the road round from Chez Paul to the water.

Head to Livingston on a Sunday or Monday. When a lot of other places can be closed, you can have a lively wine and dine using some of the best producers in the south of France. JB's vegetables really have been touched by Midas and Val's cooking is very distinctive and considered. He's one to watch.

I love to sit here for my morning coffee or dose of afternoon sun and people watch. Probably my favourite all day spot in the inner city, and it's guarded from the wind when the mistral is blowing.

Livingston

Related Guides