France

Marseille lives at a different pace to the rest of France. It's undeniably beautiful, yet also inherently shabby, with a rough edge that reveals a darker underbelly. Despite the port city's luxurious Mediterranean backdrop, there's a sense of grit and grind that separates it from the mundane playgrounds of the wealthy that define much of southern France.

V_drmgm

Marseille

Mame Diarra is a Senegalese restaurant in the heart of Noailles. If you are with a group of friends, looking for a cool spot to eat before a long night, this is the spot. Amazing food, generous portions, big tables and a huge screen constantly playing the latest West African music videos from YouTube. 

Whereas most natural wine bars tend to be interchangeable products of cultural homogenisation, La Passerelle seems to care little about the new standards of the hip bourgeoisie. Started over twenty years ago by a group of friends, La Passerelle looks more like a literary café at the crossroads of Mediterranean cultures, where musicians, artists and pretty anyone come for a good chat (and a lot of wine). 

If a diner and a PMU (French sport bar) blended together, this is what it could look like; casual and welcoming, good fun but nonetheless a super cool spot to eat, drink, mingle and unwind. Meghan, the Scottish owner, will serve you her simple yet delicious take on Mediterranean cuisine, unless you’re here to play pool in the backroom while drinking demies and pastis.

This must be my more mature, simple yet elegant, to go to spot. The one that allows you to wear your favourite pair of white trousers. La caravelle is a lowkey cocktail bar established above some restaurants of le vieux port. They have jazz bands and musicians playing every week, very decent drinks and a cool balcony with a great view.. but what I like the most is the laid back, hushed yet vibrant atmosphere that does feel like being on a 16th-century wooden boat.

Many hyper-controlled venues have been cosplaying as rave lately. Metaphore is what a real DIY space looks and feels like. Started almost ten year ago, this semi-legal warehouse hidden in the middle of an industrial area offers multiple spaces to dance, chill and socialise. The dark room is properly lightproof, equipped with a well balanced function one system that allows night long dancing away from the outer world. This is a place for experienced and respectful partygoers where you will meet the local underground community as much as people from around the world. Saturday nights are usually club nights, open to a wide range of sounds. Sundays are dedicated to live music, from more acoustic and melodic to more experimental and electronic performances.

L’arraché is the Marseillaise equivalent of a Chicago jazz bar during the prohibition. When raving or clubbing feels a little too much, going to l’arraché can be a great option. This underground bar, associatif. nearby la plaine hasn’t changed much over the past thirty years. Low ceiling, big smoke, crackling bi-bop tapes selected by one of the two sixty year old Corsican owners while the other one is handing you your bottle of beer, some people dancing, some playing chess, and literally everyone smoking. As some Time Out journalists would say - this is a ‘unique experience’, just make sure to shower before bed.

“Literally Everyone Is Smoking” - An Evening in Marseille with V_drmgm

A Moroccan owned wine bar - my number 1 spot for a drink!

Very cute wine bar if you're staying in Le Panier.

Cocktail bar next door to the chapitre, which is just as good with a Scarface-esque interior and huge terrace – works for both sides of your budget. Once you can't afford to keep going on the cocktails, go next door for a pastis and and a demi.

A sexy little wine cave near Longchamp with max cooking and other guest chefs. Nicolai and Max have also taken over a space called La Traverse near Malmosque in an art residency house. Keep an eye out for it this summer to head there on the weekends.

Fred's newly-opened cave just down the road from his first baby, Winesucker –a neighbourhood casual wine spot – Justine Pruvot is cooking there right now and her hyper-natural approach to cooking is sure to be a hit for the summer heatwave.

Small plates and wine, go up to the bonne mere for sunset and head here on the way back down!

Where to Go for a Drink in Marseille, by Chef Megan

Chez Gilda is a laid-back fry-up spot for dinner. Come here for roadside prawns in pastis, octopus and mangetout, the Mediterranean whitebait. They also do a good panisse (chickpea flour fries) – just make sure you take loads of harissa and cumin on the side as you gotta self season. Once you're done here, go to Pasarelle over the road for a bottle of affordable natural wines. The owner is iconically the double of David Bowie.

I live off Pizza Enervée at least three times a week. Pizza by the slice for €2.50 and the slice is a quarter of the pizza. Hungover, drunk or just hungry – it's there for all your moods. Their white bases are a winning underdog. Speed is not on their side though, so if it's a big queue have patience.

This sweet Afghan spot between Les Réformés and Longchamps is run by a mother and son. Marion does the lunchtime cooking, while Romain gives his mum the night off and does the evening service himself. It's a simple question of "beer or wine" and "meat or no meat," but what you get is a delicious and substantial plate of home cooking. If you're hungry there's always more, it's real hospitality.

My favourite patisserie orientale in Marseille. A traditional Tunisian Jewish bakery, David always has a really warm smile and knows what I'm after before I walk in the door. The potato and caper brick with the slice of lemon is the one.  Pick up a fricassé and sweet treats while you're there for the perfect spread on weekdays. Make sure you get fricassé sandwich (not to be confused with the one pot chicken dish). You'll find them in most corner patisseries in Noailles, served with a sweet mint tea or just to take away. Made by overfilling an oval-shaped doughnut dough with confit tuna, boiled egg, potato and olives. Always say yes to the spicy harissa, they will ask spicy or not spicy. Take the spicy option.

Little Italian; beautiful cooking and really good people, probably my favourite restaurant in Marseille. Don't miss out on the tripe if it's on the menu.

A classic seaside fish restaurant but it's as fresh as it gets. Go for lunch, you can pick a whole fish from the counter or take a pizza away and go have a wander round Les Goudes. There's a sweet little port, Croix de Cap Croisette, that's good for swimming if you follow the road round from Chez Paul to the water.

Head to Livingston on a Sunday or Monday. When a lot of other places can be closed, you can have a lively wine and dine using some of the best producers in the south of France. JB's vegetables really have been touched by Midas and Val's cooking is very distinctive and considered. He's one to watch.

I love to sit here for my morning coffee or dose of afternoon sun and people watch. Probably my favourite all day spot in the inner city, and it's guarded from the wind when the mistral is blowing.

The Best Restaurants in Marseille, Chosen by Chef Megan

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Drinks

Wine Bar

Figure

Wine

Le Vin sur la Main

Cocktail Bar

Apotek (Refromes Canibiere)

The Arts

La Traverse

Mercato 

A Night Out 

Explore Marseille

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The Best Restaurants

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Marseille

Destination Images

Local Guides by Our Community

A Night Out

Explore Marseille

The Best Restaurants